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The Link Between Modi, Obama and the Village of Nirona in Kutch!

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This family of artists living in Nirona in Kutch region of Gujarat is quite unique - their art adorns the walls of White house. Know all about this extraordinary ancient art form here. Traditional Indian handicrafts reflect the culture and history of the place they come from. One such unique art form is Rogan painting. This rare craft is practised by a lone Muslim family in India, the Khatris, who call the sleepy hamlet of Nirona in Gujarat's Kutch district their home. This family of traditional artists has steadfastly kept this intriguing craft alive for over three centuries, protecting it from vanishing into the folds of history.

The Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi, gifted a couple of exquisite handcrafted Rogan paintings to the US president, Barack Obama, during his visit to the US in 2014.

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The word rogan means oil in Persian. In this art form, paint made from thick brightly coloured castor seed oil is used to paint on fabric. Castor is a crop commonly grown in the Kutch region of Gujarat and the artists source it from the local farmers. To prepare the paint, castor oil is heated in a vessel and continuously stirred for more than 12 hours till it catches fire. The paint-maker takes extreme care to ensure it doesn't get burnt.The residue is then mixed with cold water until it thickens into a sticky elastic paste called rogan.

It is mixed with vibrant natural colours and immersed in water, before being stored in earthen pots. This helps the paint retain its malleable texture, which can be used for painting.

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Delicate and precisely painted, Rogan paintings are often created from the artist's own imagination. The artists, who prefer sitting on the floor while working, place a small amount of the paint paste on their palms. Next, they use oversized blunt needles or rods to gently stretch some strands, which they place on the fabric in elaborate patterns. The artists' fingers under the fabric help the paint spread and shape the design. As the design are mostly created towards one edge of the fabric, the cloth is then folded to create a mirror image on the other side.

An extraordinary aspect about this technique is that during the entire process of the gummy paint being carefully twisted into motifs, the blunt needle never comes into contact with the cloth!

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After drying, the rogan painted cloth is used for making sarees, decorative wall hangings, pillow covers, tablecloths, and even file folders. The intricate motifs – geometric flowers, peacocks, the tree of life, etc. – are drawn from the history and folk culture of the Kutch region.

Rogan art was traditionally used to embellish bridal trousseau and was the exclusive preserve of the male members of the Khatri family. Times have changed and, in the last few decades, the Khatris have started teaching this art form to other crafts people, including women.

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Gafoorbhai Khatri is the head of the Khatri family and he is keeping the art alive by ensuring his entire family learns and practices it (almost every artist in his family has won a national award). He is also the proud owner of a visitor’s book that is full of testimonials from appreciative people, all the way from Japan and the US to Spain and Australia.

Gafoorbhai is currently in the process of opening a school that teaches Rogan art to children from different families.

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Rogan paintings now adorn the walls of the White House but, back home, these artists are finding it difficult to earn livelihoods from just practising the art. Though Gafoorbhai and his one-family-army have held on to Rogan art for eight generations, they lack the human capital and product diversity required to cater to the demands of the modern market. Artist Papiya Mitra, who is also the founder of the Maker’s Club India, works towards uplifting Indian traditional art forms. In an interview to Sakaal Times, she said:
“Even though there is a huge market for Indian art and crafts abroad, the means to sell them are very limited. The Rogan artists have limited themselves to the Kutch region and the next generation is not willing to carry forward the legacy as there is no future in it. If they travel to different parts of the country and teach the techniques to others or if art enthusiasts go to them and learn it and help spread its richness, only then will the awareness about Rogan art increase.”
To help Rogan art reach more people, the government has started incentivizing Rogan artists. Many startups and NGOs are also helping to create a market for them. Other than preserving traditional designs, the artists are being encouraged to experiment with new motifs and colour combinations. This will create products that have a different appeal, are affordable and have a wider reach. In an interview to Travel Knots, Gafoorbhai said:
“The Prime Minister buys our works to give them as gifts to dignitaries. Also, we now get a free stall in handicrafts exhibitions all over India to help us showcase our art to the world. Foreigners coming to Kutch today have Nirona on their itineraries and most of them are enchanted by this rare art.”
For a long time, this rare craft was not well known even in India. But with a growing fan following that includes Amitabh Bachchan, Waheeda Rehman, Shabana Azmi and, of course, Narendra Modi, Rogan art is now getting the recognition it deserves.
Also ReadThese 11 Rare Paintings of India Were Recently Released by the New York Public Library

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In This Tiny Karnataka Village, Farmers and Shopkeepers Debate over Shakespeare and Kalidas

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IIn the quiet village of Heggodu in Shimoga, 350 km from Bangalore, it is not uncommon to hear local farmers, cart drivers and shopkeepers rattle off names of literary greats and their theatrical works without batting an eyelid. The astonishing cultural life of this unique village is a result of it being home to the Nilakanteshwara Natyaseva Samgha, a world famous culture institute better known as Ninasam. thequint%2F2015-08%2F8f48b94c-a225-4cf5-83dc-10a0659f61c7%2Fmini theatre
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Founded in 1949 by the acclaimed Kannada writer, Kuntagodu Vibhuthi Subbanna, Ninasam has made outstanding contributions in the fields of theatre, films and publishing. Ninasam began as an amateur theatre group housed in a small thatched hut in the verdant environment of Heggodu but grew rapidly to become a powerhouse of Kannada culture and intellect. The focus of Ninasam was socio-cultural work and its aim was to build a bridge between rural and urban Karnataka by fusing culture and activism. In its initial years, Ninasam would conduct theatre and literary workshops and publish theatre-related books. As a result, culture enthusiasts from nearby places started coming together to discuss contemporary issues and events. As the years passed, more people started getting involved in the workings of Ninasam. A full-fledged theatre building (named after Kannada’s literary great Shivarama Karanth) was constructed for its theatre troupe, which started performing plays in other parts of Karnataka as well. Ninasam also began offering residential theatre training programmes soon afterwards. OrestisPurana_DriBy_BRVAithal_NIN_Core_2015-5
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Ninasam also started one of India's very few village based film societies. To eliminate the language barrier for the locals, who understood only Kannada, KV Subbana would write entire screenplays of films in Kannada and distribute them to the people before screening. His efforts are evident even today when the villagers talk in depth about Apur Sansar, Rashomon and Seven Samurai when asked about their favourite films.
You May Also LikeThe Link Between Modi, Obama and the Village of Nirona in Kutch!
The flagship event of Ninasam became its much-loved culture course known as the Samskrutik Shibira. The 7-day annual event is a combination of intellectual discourse and aesthetic experience that revolves around a chosen socio-political theme. With an unpretentious and lively atmosphere, the event hosts scholars and young enthusiasts of culture who descend in large numbers every year. Eminent figures of Indian culture such as B V Karanth, U R Ananthmurthy, Sammik Bandhopadhyay, and Shiv Vishwanathan have delivered lectures at this renowned culture course. IMG_7161
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Ninasam follows the guru-shishya tradition and is totally run by the staff and students who take turns doing the chores in the institute. Each part of the beautiful campus blends in well with the rustic natural surroundings. The buildings have been constructed using local materials and are decorated with hasechitra or traditional Shimoga motifs. Sharing a symbiotic relationship with the institute, villagers often drop by to lend a helping hand, flitting across from the rehearsal halls and library to the canteen on the institute campus, hoping to hear snatches of dialogue and music from the ongoing rehearsals. IMG_7457
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Behind the canteen is a beautiful enclosure that is used for making masks and props and where children from nearby villages are trained for Yakshagana performances.  Yakshagana is a folk theatre form that combines dance, music, dialogue and costumes in a unique theatre that is traditionally presented from dusk to dawn. It is predominantly seen in the coastal districts of Karnataka, especially the Malnad region. IMG_7320
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A few yards away, students of Ninasam’s 10-month theatre course practise for their first production under the watchful eyes of the senior alumni of the institute. This course is a nursery for aspiring theatre practitioners who want to learn the art of blending the traditional and the contemporary. At the institute's dedicated theatre building, members of Ninasam’s famous theatre troupe, Tirugata, rehearse for their much awaited annual play. Every year, Tirugata recruits a fresh team of artists and travels the length and breadth of the state, putting up shows that are sold out in every place they go. Gunamukha_DriByManjuKodagu_NIN_Tiru_2015-1
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Days at Ninasam are full of literary discussions and evenings are filled with theatre performances – from drama and dance to classical music. These events have helped the locals acquire a passion for the works of writers ranging from Bernard Shaw, Shakespeare and Leo Tolstoy to Kalidasa, Girish Karnad, and Mohan Rakesh. In six decades, Ninasam has developed into a multi-faceted organisation that has several branches like the Ninasam Theatre Institute, Ninasam Tirugata, Ninasam Foundation, and the Akshara Prakashana Publishing House. The great work done by Ninasam has brought it widespread recognition and several awards, both national and international, in the field of theatre and related arts. Its founder, the late KV Subbanna, was conferred the prestigious Ramon Magsaysay Award for Creative Arts, Communication and Journalism in 1991. Still going strong, Ninasam has not only played a big role in inculcating cultural literacy in every corner of Karnataka, it has also inspired several others in the country by illustrating the multiple uses of theatre. As Girish Karnad, popularly considered the face of Kannada theatre, said in an interview to Quint,
“They (Ninasam) create people who know the vocabulary of theatre.”
Ninasam has indeed changed the lives of all the people who have come in touch with the institution. From literary debates between local residents and shop keepers to lively dialogue exchanges between farmers as they work in the fields, everyone in Heggodu has made literature and theatre a part of their lives. This village, that cares so deeply for art and culture, is a must visit for all theatre and culture enthusiasts.
Also Read : MY STORY: I Met the Man Who Brought Social Inclusiveness to a Forgotten Village in Uttarakhand

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#Travel Tales: Inside Mumbai’s Only Chinese Shrine, the Beautiful Kwan Kung Temple

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The city of Mumbai has always been like a beautiful mosaic of varied cultures, people and traditions. Back in the early 1900s, Mazagaon was home to Mumbai’s thriving See Yup Koon community. Originally from Canton in Southern China, these people moved to India when they were working for the East India Company. They settled in Mumbai as merchants, traders and sailors. In 1962, when the Sino-Indian War broke out, many of the city's Chinese residents migrated back to China. However, a few families decided to stay on in their homes in what had come to be known as China Town. Today, this place is known as Dockyard Road, Mazagaon.

The beautiful Kwan Kung Temple, the only Chinese temple in Mumbai, is a landmark in the area and a nostalgic reminder of the thriving community that once lived here.

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The Kwan Kung Temple, built over 90 years ago, lies nestled in a quaint lane in a two-storey house in Mazagaon. Except for a small wooden gate painted in red, nothing about the ageing building suggests from the outside that there is a a place of worship inside.

On climbing the small wooden staircase to reach the inner shrine, one sees a mural of Fuk, Luk and Sau, the three Chinese gods of blessing, longevity, and prosperity, on the wall.

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The entrance to the shrine is adorned with wind chimes, paper lanterns and Chinese calligraphy.

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On entering the temple one is greeted by different shades of scarlet. The walls, cupboards, the altar, even the doors and chairs, are all painted red, the most auspicious colour in Chinese culture. Traditional Chinese paraphernalia hang atop the elaborate and intricate altar, and neatly carved figurines sit in front, paying homage to the Chinese god of justice and courage, Guan Gong.

Swathed in silk and protecting the altar is Kwan Tai Kwon, the warrior god, who is believed to remove all obstacles.

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A cupboard on the side has traditional joss sticks, paper money and kidney-shaped Jiaobei (moon blocks) for worshippers. Moon blocks are wooden divination tools - each block is round on one side and flat on the other, denoting yin and yang. Ask a question and throw them to the floor – if they fall with the opposite sides up, it means the forces are with you; if not, it means that whatever you've asked for is something you should avoid! Apart from lighting incense sticks and candles while praying, devotees also roll the Chinese fortune sticks before making a wish.

There is a huge board, with files of bamboo sheets fixed under different numbers, in Chinese script. Each number has a corresponding fortune card where people read their fortune, annually.  Following the prayers, the brass bell is rung three times, before chocolates are offered as prasad!

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Built in 1919, the temple comes to life during the Chinese New Year and Moon Festival when over 500 Chinese gather to seek blessings. Temple caretaker Albert Tham and his mother spend long hours preparing the temple for the occasion, lighting lamps and arranging fruits and cakes as offerings to the god. They have also made another temple dedicated to Guan Yin, a female deity revered for mercy, peace and wisdom, on the ground floor of the building. Tham, born and brought up in Mumbai, says he has never felt like going back to China.
"I have lived here all my life. I'm Chinese but Mumbai is my home, I can't leave it. Many of my siblings have gone abroad, but I stayed on. I can't speak Chinese well, but my Hindi and Marathi are good," says Tham.
Outside the temple, the distinctive buildings in the narrow lanes of the once-bustling China Town have ethnic Chinese names on their doors.

Most of them also bear the words See Yup Koon, which literally translates to "inns for sea merchants."

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The little Chinese temple of Kwan Kung is definitely a hidden gem of Mumbai. With swirls of aromatic joss rising from incense sticks, meditative chants playing in the background and warm red colours imparting a comfortable glow, this old-world shrine is like none other in the city. An absolute must visit for history aficionados!
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#Travel Tales: A Glimpse into Gujarat’s Ancient City of Lost Glories, Champaner-Pavagadh

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In the Panchmahal district of Gujarat, 47 km from Vadodara, lies the spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site of Champaner-Pavagadh. Once the flourishing capital of an influential sultanate and an important trading post, medieval Champaner grew and developed at the base of the towering Pavagadh Hill, an 800-meter-high volcanic-origin peak that remains a pilgrimage site to this day. Champaner-Pavagadh was deserted after the Mughals shifted their capital to Ahmedabad and over the years, this vast territory was gradually lost under dense forest cover. Archaeological activity in the last 50 years has rediscovered the city and excavations have already yielded 39 standing monuments that are a beautiful confluence of Hindu, Jain and Islamic architectural styles.

Sprawled across the descending plateau of the Pavagadh hill, the Champaner-Pavagadh Archeological Park creates a stunning visual landscape of natural and man-made environments.

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For those seeking an offbeat weekend getaway with a blend of history and adventure, and a dash of spirituality and heritage, a 60-minute drive from Vadodara to Champaner-Pavagadh is the right choice. The city of Champaner was founded by the Rajput King Vanraj Chavda of the Chavda Kingdom in the 8th century. The neighbouring town of Pavagadh was a key strategic point on the trade routes emanating from Gujarat and thereon spreading across India. The increasing glory of the small towns lured invaders to Champaner and Pavagadh. Many rulers attempted to capture them but only Mahmud Begda succeeded in doing so in 1484, after a siege of nearly two years. After his victory, Sultan Mahmud Begada turned Champaner, at the base of the Pavagadh hill, into a splendid new capital. But its glory was brief; in 1535, the city was captured by Mughal ruler Humayun, who made Ahmedabad the capital city again in order to control Gujarat. This marked the start of the decline of Champaner, which slowly fell to ruin. As visitors approach the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, they are greeted by the scenic attractions of Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary before the sight of the serene Pavagadh hill, standing tall amid the plains, gives them the first hint of the surprises that await them at the Park.
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A concentration of exquisite archaeological, historic and cultural monuments cradled in an impressive landscape, the ruins of Champaner have a story to tell.

The heart of this historic site is the Citadel, whose most impressive features are its monumental mosques that beautifully blend Islamic and Hindu decoration styles.

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The huge Jami Masjid , just outside the Citadel’s east gate, is a mosque that seems to have frozen in time. It has a wonderful carved entrance porch (with a missing dome) that leads into a lovely courtyard surrounded by a pillared corridor. The grave of a little known saint rests here in solitude, surrounded by flowers brought by visitors as homage.

The prayer hall has intricate stone carvings, multiple domes, latticed windows, and seven mihrabs (prayer niches), along with two 30 metre tall central minarets that can be seen from quite a distance.

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Evidence of the blend of Persian and Indian styles of decor is found in the form of the kalash (a Hindu religious symbol) engraved on the mihrabs. The other stunning mosques at this Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)-protected site include the Saher ki Masjid (the private mosque for the royal family), the Kevda Masjid (with a two storey prayer hall and minarets with a spectacular view), the Nagina Masjid (with no minarets but exquisite geometric carvings), Lila Gumbaj ki Masjid (with a fluted central dome), and Minar ki Masjid (a rare brick tomb with twin minarets that resemble factory chimneys).

With the shimmering rays of the sun lending a golden hue to the sandstone, and the azure sky providing a pleasing contrast, all the mosques are a spectacular sight to behold.

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From here one can climb uphill, drive or take the ropeway to reach the Kalika Mata temple atop Pavagadh hill.

Perched on a cliff, the Kalika Mata temple attracts lakhs of devotees every year and is especially beautiful during the monsoon season.

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The presiding deity of this temple is Goddess Kalika Mata, who is portrayed and worshipped in the form of a red coloured head called the mukhwato. The two other main deities are Goddess Kali and Goddess Bahucharamata. An interesting legend about the town says that Baiju Bawra, the renowned 16th century music maestro and Tansen's contemporary rival, belonged to Champaner and Goddess Kali had blessed him with his beautiful voice after he was born mute. A mud path on the Pavagadh hill  leads to the fascinating Saat Kamman (Seven Arches). However, after one arch was demolished by natural elements, there are only 6 arches that remain now.

Blocks of perfectly chipped yellow sandstone fit tightly into each other (no cement or similar binding material was ever used) to form these amazing arches, which are all that remains of what was perhaps a mosque.

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Yet another attraction is the Kabootar Khana or the House of Pigeons. The summer pavilion of the kings of Champaner, it overlooks a beautiful lake called Vada Talao - the source of the cool breeze that blows through the ancient bird-free roost. The water-wise Mahmud created narrow ledges at the base of the slopes to contain downhill streams, leading to interconnected lakes and finally to the large Vada Talao in the plains.

Another interesting experience here is a walk through dry riverbeds to the Jand Hanuman temple deep in the forest.

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Locals believe that the Pandavas visited this place during their 13 years in exile and placed a big Hanuman idol here. It is also believed that Bheem made the idol while Arjun created a well using his arrow – a water source that never runs dry. The nearby wildlife sanctuary in Jambughoda (a princely state prior to Independence) is home to magnificent forests of teak and bamboo that teem with wildlife. If lucky, one can even see leopards, sloth bears, jackals, blue bulls, wild boars, and four-horned antelopes, besides many varieties of reptiles. Migratory birds abound at the two beautiful water reservoirs in the sanctuary, Kada and Targol.

One thing that makes Champaner-Pavagadh stand out among many other ancient ruins of Indian cities is the adroit town planning here – the twin cities have over 36 ASI-protected sites, which include fortifications, palaces, religious buildings, residential precincts, cenotaphs, step wells, bastions, agricultural structures, and water facilities from the 8th to the 14th centuries.

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Buildings that served as military bases, storage houses and custom houses (mandiv) are still intact, while most of the big mosques have evidence of elaborate water harvesting structures (Hauz-i-Vazu) in their compounds. Interestingly, this site was also the fictional location for the Oscar-nominated film and mega hit of 2001, Lagaan. The sleepy town, where cycles and bullock carts jitter through the narrow lanes behind crumbling fortifications, is a magnificent tribute to the architectural prowess of that era. The allure of Champaner-Pavagadh, an old, deserted yet still glorious town, still draws travellers from far and wide across India and abroad. Where to Start: Shaher Ki Masjid  is the starting point for your exploration. It is where you buy your ticket for Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park. You are allowed to take your vehicle inside the archaeological park while exploring the ruins. How To Reach: The nearest airport is in Vadodara. Although Champaner has a railway station, it is not well-connected. The Vadodara railway station would be a better option. Buses from Vadodara and Ahmedabad also leave frequently for Champaner. Best Time To Visit: Winter (October to February). Where To Stay: There are numerous options in Champaner, catering to different budgets.
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#Travel Tales: Exploring Tagore’s Santiniketan, an Abode of Learning Unlike Any in the World

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She is our own, the darling of our hearts, Santiniketan. In the shadows of her trees we meet in the freedom of her open sky. Our dreams are rocked in her arms. Her face is a fresh wonder of love every time we see her, for she is our own, the darling of our hearts." -  Rabindranath Tagore
Located about 158 km northwest of Kolkata in Bengal's rural hinterland, Santiniketan embodies Rabindranath Tagore's vision of a place of learning that is unfettered by religious and regional barriers. Established in 1863 with the aim of helping education go beyond the confines of the classroom, Santiniketan grew into the Visva Bharati University in 1921, attracting some of the most creative minds in the country.

From its very inception, Santiniketan was lovingly modelled by Tagore on the principles of humanism, internationalism and a sustainable environment.

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He developed a curriculum that was a unique blend of art, human values and cultural interchange. Even today, in every step, in every brick and in every tree at Santiniketan, one can still feel his presence, his passion, his dedication and his pride in the institution.

This is the fascinating story of how the rural paradise of Santiniketan, Tagore's erstwhile home, became a thriving centre of art, education and internationalism over the years.

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In 1862, Maharishi Debendranath Tagore, father of Rabindranath, was taking a boat ride through Birbhum, the westernmost corner of Bengal, when he came across a landscape that struck him as the perfect place for meditation. Captivated by the kaleidoscopic beauty of the luxuriantly canopied chhatim trees and palm groves that offered shade in the rugged, red coloured terrain, he bought the large tract of land that had charmed him, built a small house and planted some saplings around it. At that time, the area was called Bhubandanga after a local dacoit named Bhuban Dakat, but Debendranath Tagore decided to call the place Santiniketan, or the 'abode of peace', because of the serenity it brought to his soul. In 1863, he turned it into a spiritual centre where people from all religions, castes and creeds came and participated in meditation. In the years that followed, Debendranath’s son Rabindranath went on to become one of the most formidable literary forces India has ever produced. As one of the earliest educators to think in terms of the global village, he envisioned an education that was deeply rooted in one’s immediate surroundings but connected to the cultures of the wider world.

With this in mind, on December 22, 1901, Rabindranath Tagore established an experimental school at Santiniketan with five students (including his eldest son) and an equal number of teachers. He originally named it Brahmacharya Ashram, in the tradition of ancient forest hermitages called tapoban.

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The guiding principle of this little school is best described in Tagore's own words,
“The highest education is that which does not merely give us information but makes our life in harmony with all existence."
Located in the heart of nature, the school aimed to combine education with a sense of obligation towards the larger civic community. Blending the best of western and traditional eastern systems of education, the curriculum revolved organically around nature with classes being held in the open air. Tagore wanted his students to feel free despite being in the formal learning environment of a school, because he himself had dropped out of school when he found himself unable to think and felt claustrophobic within the four walls of a classroom.

At Patha Bhavan, as the school later came to be known, children sat on hand-woven mats beneath trees that they were allowed to climb and run beneath during breaks.

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Nature walks and excursions were a part of the curriculum, special attention was paid to natural phenomena and students were encouraged to follow the life cycles of insects, birds and plants. Other than such everyday subjects, emphasis was also given to vocational education. Flexible class schedules allowed for shifts in the weather and the seasonal festivals Tagore created for the children.
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In an attempt to help with rural reconstruction, Tagore also sought to expand the school's relationship with the neighbouring villages of the Santhal tribal community. Thanks to his efforts, Santiniketan has today become the largest centre for educated Santhals in West-Bengal. Many of them have become teachers, several serving in Visva Bharati itself, while others have become social workers. Santiniketan can be credited with taking the first path breaking steps in the field of education at a time when the country was slowly getting hitched to the European mode of education (textual and exam oriented knowledge imparted in closed classrooms).

Other than a humane and environment friendly educational system that aimed at overall development of the personality, Santiniketan also offered one of the earliest co-educational programmes in South Asia.

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In the year 1913, Tagore was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature for his book of poems Gitanjali. The award enhanced the prestige of Santiniketan and in 1921, Tagore converted the little school into a university called the Visva Bharati. The motto that Tagore chose for the Visva Bharati University, Yatra visvam bhavatyekanidam (where the whole world can find a nest), reflected his aspirations for the institution.

The University offers courses in humanities, social science, science, fine arts, music, performing arts, education, agricultural science, and rural reconstruction. Its art college, Kala Bhavan, is widely considered to be one of the best art colleges in the world.

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Tagore was one of the first to support and bring together different forms of arts at Santiniketan. He invited artists and scholars from other parts of India and all over the world to live together at Santiniketan on a daily basis and share their cultures with the students of Visva Bharati. He once wrote:
“Without music and the fine arts, a nation lacks its highest means of national self-expression and the people remain inarticulate."
Tagore encouraged artists such as Nandalal Bose to take up residence at Santiniketan and devote themselves full-time to promoting a national form of art. He helped revive folk dances and introduced dance forms from other parts of India, such as Manipuri, Kathak and Kathakali, at Santiniketan. He also supported modern dance and was one of the first to recognise the talents of Uday Shankar, who was invited to perform at Santiniketan.
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At Tagore’s behest, annual festivals such as Basant Utsav and  Poush Utsav became important cultural events, with students and teachers of Santiniketan playing an active role.

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The grand Poush Utsav is celebrated on the Foundation Day of the University, while the colourful Basant Utsav is celebrated on the occasion of Holi. The Nandan Mela, which was originally started to raise money for a poor student who needed money for treatment, is today an event where university students display and sell their art. Other events like the Sarodotsav (Autumn Festival), Maghotsav (Founding Day of the Sriniketan campus) and Brikhsharopan Utsav (Tree Planting Festival) are also celebrated with great pomp and fervour.

On all these occasions, the entire campus has a festive atmosphere, with baul (traditional wandering minstrels of Bengal) songs, tribal dances, and other cultural performances being organised throughout the township.

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Encouraged by Tagore, rural artisans would bring their wares, like batik printed materials, the famous Santiniketan leather bags, earthenware, wooden iktaras, terracotta jewellery and paintings to these festivals, while urban counterparts would set up stalls where rural folk could buy industrially-produced goods from the cities.

Thanks to Tagore’s legacy, Santiniketan has managed to preserve Bengal's fast-disappearing rural crafts culture through folk markets, like the weekly Bondangaar Haat, and rural co-operatives, like Amar Kutir.

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Another unique feature of Santiniketan is its lush greenery and aesthetically laid out campus, which stands testimony to Tagore’s belief that the close connect between man and nature should be the founding principle of education.

 The mud buildings, the frescoes and tree-lined avenues have a distinct architectural style, the hallmark of which is a dynamic simplicity.

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The Uttarayan Complex in Santiniketan holds five homes that Tagore lived in at various stages of his life. Konark, the first home to be built, was used as a venue for poetry recitations and play rehearsals, while Shyamali (an ecofriendly mud house) was an experiment by Tagore to see if a permanent mud roof could be built. The outer walls of the houses in the Uttarayan Complex are decorated with mud murals painted by students of Kala Bhavana in 1935 under the supervision of the famous painter Nandalal Bose.

The Uttarayan complex has also hosted many famous people, including Mahatma Gandhi, who stayed here in 1940.

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The complex also houses Rabindra Bhavan Museum or the Bichitra. Designed by Tagore's son, Rathindranath, the museum displays several original manuscripts, photographs, gifts Tagore received on his travels, letters (including Tagore's hand written letter refusing to accept knighthood), and his Nobel Prize medallion and citation. In 2004, his original Nobel medal was stolen from the premises and has since been replaced with a replica. Some other notable places of historical and cultural interest are Santiniketan Griha - the building where most poems of Gitanjali were composed, the Upasana Griha - a deityless Belgium glass temple, the Amra Kunja (mango grove) where spring festivals are held, Dinantika - the tea club where teachers and staff would gather for a chat, and Teen Pahar - where baby Rabindranath once made three hillocks of pebbles.Shal Bithi, a mud path lined with a row of Shal trees, was the favourite walking route of Tagore at Santiniketan.

While Chaitya is a small mud and coal-tar house (resembling a typical thatched Bengali hut) that showcases art work by university students, Taladhwaj is a round mud hut, built around the trunk of a toddy palm, with palm leaves stretching out over its thatched roof.

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Also, 2 km away from Santiniketan is Sriniketan, the part of Visva Bharati that is devoted to rural reconstruction.

Here, there are cottage industries that specialise in pottery, leatherwork, batik print and woodwork.

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Other than its vibrant festivals and eclectic architecture, what makes Santiniketan really special is the fact that Visva Bharati University gives complete artistic freedom to its students. In line with Tagore's immortal words, "Where the head is held high, and knowledge is free," the college knows that freedom to acquire knowledge also means the freedom to work whenever a student feels like.

This is why, at Santiniketan, the studios are open 24x7 for students who want to work.

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This ground-breaking outlook is also the reason why Santiniketan has given India many luminaries like pioneering painter Nandalal Bose, famous sculptor Ramkinkar Baij, Nobel-winning economist Amartya Sen, globally renowned filmmaker Satyajit Ray, and the country's leading art historian R. Siva Kumar. The University also has several eminent international alumni that include Indonesian painter Affandi, Italian Asianist Giuseppe Tucci, Chinese historian Tan Chung, eminent Indologist Moriz Winternitz, and Sri Lankan artist Harold Peiris, among many others. Pouring his creative genius into his work, Tagore himself produced some of his best literary works, paintings and sketches at Santiniketan.

Over the years, Santiniketan has adapted to the changing times. But the essence of the place is still what Tagore wanted it to be.

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The Nobel Laureate's life, philosophy and literary works find their greatest reflection in Santiniketan, where classes are still taught in the open, where nature and its seasons are still celebrated instead of religious festivals, where the graduation ceremony is marked by the gifting of a chhatim leaf, and where education is rooted in Tagore's philosophy that "the whole world can find a nest." Falling way outside the strict definition of an academic university, Santiniketan, an educational institution with a difference, is arguably Tagore's greatest work and a legacy India has to live up to. As Tagore wrote in his last letter to Mahatma Gandhi,
"Visva Bharati is like a vessel carrying the cargo of my life's best treasure and I hope it may claim special care from my countrymen for its preservation."
How to reach Santiniketan The distance from Kolkata to Santiniketan is about 182 km. Santiniketan is well connected to Kolkata via road and rail. By Rail: The nearest station is Bolpur. Take the Visva-Bharati Fast Passenger or Rampurhat Express from Howrah to reach Bolpur within 2.5 hours. By Road: If you follow the Durgapur Expressway, it takes approximately 4 hours to reach Santiniketan. Buses to Bolpur are available from Esplanade bus terminal in Kolkata When to visit Visit during winter, when the weather is pleasant and perfect for long strolls, or during the monsoon, when the lush countryside paints itself in every hue of green. Summers here can get very hot and humid. Where to stay Several options are available, ranging from basic homestays and pretty guest houses to family-friendly holiday resorts.
Also Read: This Mysterious Himachal Village Was a Meeting Point for Famous Artists, Potters and Actors

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From Royalty to Relics: The Fascinating Story of India’s Dinosaur Princess, Aaliya Sultana Babi

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India's very own 'Jurassic Park', the Balasinor Fossil Park, lies nestled in the tiny Raiyoli village of Gujarat's Khera district. And guarding the Park’s 65-million-year-old eggs is a fiercely passionate, dinosaur-loving princess. Meet Aaliya Sultana Babi, the force behind the preservation of the rare dinosaur fossil beds at Raiyoli. Dubbed the 'Dinosaur Princess' by the locals, Aaliya, the only English-speaking guide in Balasinor, conducts fascinating tours of the fossil reserve.

Friendly, cheerful and extremely down to earth, the former princess of the erstwhile state of Balasinor is an enthusiastic promoter and protector of the dinosaur legacy she fell in love with as a young girl.

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It was in the winter of 1981, when Aaliya was just a child, that scientists from the Geological Survey of India (GSI) accidentally discovered fossils in the sedimentary rocks of Raiyoli village. The geologists had been conducting a mineral survey when they found some unusual stones the size of large fruits. Lab testing later determined that the finds were dinosaur eggs and bones.

Since then, researchers have uncovered fossils of about 1000 dinosaur eggs, belonging to at least 7 species of dinosaurs, making Raiyoli the third largest dinosaur hatchery in the world.

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Over the next few years, while Aaliya was away at a boarding school, paleontologists collected hundreds of bones for research from Balasinor and neighbouring areas of the Narmada River Valley. However, Aaliya's first brush with the fossils took place only after she finished school and came back to Balasinor. This was in 1997, when she visited the site for the first time at the invitation of a Geological Survey of India team. Coincidentally, the dinosaur cult classic film Jurassic Park had also released sometime in the early 90s and the dinosaur craze across the world was at an all time high. Fascinated by what she saw, Aaliya (a fan of the Jurassic Park movie) soon became interested in the region’s prehistory. As a curious teenager, Aaliya had seen several scientific teams from the US, Russia and Taiwan arrive at the Raiyoli site that was just a 15-minute drive from her palatial home. And with her father, Nawab Mohamed Salabatkhan Babi, turning their large palace into a heritage hotel (the only large hotel in Raiyoli back then), it was natural that the scientists came to stay with them.

Aaliya would accompany the expert paleontologists on their research trips to the fossil reserve. Through her interactions and experiences with the scientists, she learnt all about the ancient 30-ft tall reptiles that once walked her neighbourhood.

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She learnt to identify their fossilised parts lying embedded in the rocks, conducted exhaustive self-studies on the dinosaurs and even contemplated pursuing a degree. Over time, her passion for this rare historical site turned into a lifelong interest in dinosaurs. When the significance of the Park was first made public, villagers started decamping with valuable rocks and fossils, knowing only that they were precious and that something important was going on. It became a challenging task to educate and garner the cooperation of the locals in preserving the long-neglected site.

That’s when Aaliya became a fierce crusader for the Park’s protection, spending long hours outdoors to personally shoo away grazing cattle, stop villagers from plucking out fossils, and even prevent random tourists from carrying away precious pieces as souvenirs.

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It was largely due to her efforts that the Gujarat government belatedly woke up to preserving the site. The state government erected a new double fencing around the site and stationed guards to drive away cattle grazers. This was an important step because dinosaur bones are as brittle and fragile as human bones and treading upon them can destroy them completely.

Also, thanks to her consistent campaigning to raise awareness, the local villagers today understand the significance of the site and quickly inform the palace authorities if poachers are found trespassing. They even act as guides for the visitors coming to the hotel – they have been personally trained by Aaliya.

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Throughout this period, Aaliya kept writing to paleontologists, geologists, and other scientists, asking them to mail her research papers and books with any reference to Balasinor. Thanks to her study of these materials, she was able to make several startling discoveries. Here is an interesting story from her saga of discovery and struggle to protect the most significant site for dinosaur remains in India. In 2003, the young princess was doing the rounds of her estate one evening when she passed an old woman’s hut. The old woman was renowned in the Raiyoli village for her culinary skills. Enticed by the beautiful aroma emanating from the old woman's home, Aaliya entered to find the old woman grinding spices with a strange mortar and pestle. The unusual mortar and pestle was very rough and in strange hues of brown and gray, unlike the etched and sculpted sets available locally. The mortar was a heavy piece of rock with a depression in it while the unique pestle was an oval stone, with a curved bottom and tiny pores that ground the ingredients into powder flawlessly. Recognising that the pestle was really a dinosaur egg, Aaliya asked the old woman if she could take the utensil with her but the woman refused. Revealing that she had found them ages ago in the nearby wilderness, the woman insisted that the mortar and pestle were the secret behind her culinary expertise and she did not want to part with them. However, the equally determined princess persisted and after a few hours of negotiation it was decided that the pestle would be replaced with one from the royal kitchen and Aaliya would keep the unusual one. The pestle (egg), the size of a woman's hand, now sits in a red velvet jewellery box, ensconced in a bed of white silk.
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The year 2003 was special in another significant way for the Balasinor Fossil Park. The remains of a new dinosaur species were identified and pieced together by paleontologists Jeffrey Wilson of the University of Michigan and Paul Sereno of the University of Chicago, and a team of GSI researchers led by Suresh Srivastava and P. Yadagiri.

Given the name Rajasaurus narmadensis, which means regal reptile of the Narmada, the gigantic, horned, 30-foot-long carnivore lived during the Cretaceous period. This was the first reconstruction of a dinosaur skull ever assembled from remains collected in India, and the reconstruction can now be seen at the Indian Museum in Kolkata.

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Today, the rural landscape is dominated by a six-metre tall, life-size replica of a roaring Rajasaurus, made of metal and cement and mud, with an exterior of brass paint. A very rare example of non-dinosaurian predation on dinosaurs was also found in the form of a fossilized dinosaur-eating snake discovered by GSI paleontologist Dhananjay Mohabey. It was named Sanajeh indicus, meaning “the ancient gaped one from the Indus River” in Sanskrit.

When she is not working to protect the history of the beasts who roamed around in the land of her ancestors, Aaliya manages the Garden Palace Heritage Hotel where her family still resides.

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Other than the warm hospitality of the Babi family and the mysteries of the nearby Fossil Park, visitors to this heritage hotel are treated to the traditional cuisine of Balasinor, cooked in the royal kitchen under the supervision of Aaliya's mother, the queen herself, Begum Farhat Sultana. In 2009, the gregarious and graceful princess also travelled to England to take part in a BBC reality show, Undercover Princesses. Curious tourists continue to flock to see India's very own 'Jurassic Park' but for Aaliya, her work has always been more about protecting the site than about attracting public attention. Even today, the princess can often been spotted at the Fossil Park sporting a safari hat as she keeps a look out for vandals and points out fossilized rocks, bones and egg rings to interested visitors. Grateful for the unconditional support she received from her parents for her work, Aaliya plans to set up a museum and assist students of paleontology in their research. She doesn't mind handing over the complete responsibility of the Fossil Park to the state government but only if she is assured that they will preserve it to the best of their ability.
"The village belonged to my grandfather and is now the third largest pre-historic fossil site in India protected by the Geological Survey of India (GSI). So, I will keep working to preserve the fossils for posterity," says Aaliya, whose grand aunt was the famous Bollywood actress Parveen Babi.
A gold mine for those interested in experiencing a slice of primeval history, Balasinor's Fossil Park is the only site in the world where tourists can actually touch dinosaur remains, hold fossils in their hands and be awed by a 'Dinosaur Princess' who willingly acts as their tourist guide.
Also Read14 Fascinating and Perplexing Unsolved Mysteries of Indian History

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#Travel Tales: Why A Trip to Nako, Tabo and Kaza is the Best Himalayan Adventure You Will Ever Have

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Years ago, Rudyard Kipling described his visit to Spiti thus: “At last entered a world within a world – a valley of leagues where the high hills were fashioned of the mere rubble and refuse from off the knees of the mountains… Surely the Gods live here.” And all of it holds true even in the present day.

Tucked away in the interiors of the Trans-Himalayan belt of Himachal Pradesh, the spellbinding Spiti valley is a cold desert, a heady mix of austere barren mountains, unexpected bursts of green fields and deep gorges formed by the fierce Spiti River.

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The proximity of Spiti to Tibet also means there is more than a fair bit of Buddhist influence in the region. The valley's moon-like landscape is dotted with several important gompas (monasteries) that are a favourite with the Dalai Lama himself. Preserved inside them are ancient treasures of art, scriptures and statues that date back to the beginning of Buddhism. The rugged landscape and rustic surroundings around the secluded villages on the Nako-Tabo-Kaza circuit in Spiti, which rest at an average height of 12,500 feet above sea level, are a dream destination for those seeking adventure on an offbeat frontier holiday.

For those who haven't witnessed the sheer beauty of this 'world within a world' firsthand, here are a few breathtaking glimpses of the strikingly beautiful villages of Nako, Tabo and Kaza.

1. The Silvery Spiti River

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The quietly flowing Spiti river nurtures this barren yet beautiful valley of Himachal Pradesh. After the winter snow melts, the banks of the river come to life, transforming into lush grassy grazing grounds for the yaks, sheep and goats that form the lifeline of the villagers; the milk is used by the families to make butter and cheese, the wool is used to make tents and weave blankets, while the meat is a delicacy saved for festive occasions.

2. The Pristine Lakeside Village - Nako

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The peaceful and picturesque Nako village is perched on the banks of the Nako lake, illuminated in shimmering blues and greens by the sun bouncing off the surrounding snowy mountain peaks. The boundless azure skies above and the empty expanse around join hands with the lake to deliver a sense of openness that makes Nako a traveller's delight.

3. Snow Shrouded Nako in Winter

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While Nako is beautiful in any month of the year, winter is completely different and surreal. Reaching Nako in winter is itself a task. Snow starts falling in Spiti by the end of October, gradually closing the Rohtang and Kunzum passes and making it extremely difficult to reach Nako.

4. The Mesmerising Monastery at Tabo

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Often referred to as the 'Ajanta of the Himalayas', the Tabo Chos-Khor Monastery was founded more than a thousand years ago in 996 A.D. Untouched by the trials and tribulations of humanity, it has preserved its glorious heritage, traditions and culture of Buddhism through the centuries. Standing serenely in the cold and rocky Tabo Valley, this ancient monastery shows amazing architectural integrity and spiritual richness.

4. Spectacular Murals Inside the Tabo Monastery

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The Tabo monastery is famous for its exquisite murals and stucco sculptures, described by His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, as 'a delightful expression of the Indo-Tibetan collaboration in spreading Buddhist culture'. The contrast between the simple mud brick exterior and the resplendent ornate interiors of the Tabo monastery is spectacularly striking and a must see for every visitor.

5. Cave Shrines (Chortens) at Tabo

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Above the Tabo monastery, there are caves and cliff like structures (chortens) that are used by the monks for meditation. The monastery complex includes 9 temples, 23 cave shrines, a monks’ chamber and an extension that houses the nuns' chamber - they all have different names on the basis of their use.This historically significant site is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

6. The Ancient Capital of Spiti-Dhanker

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Located between Tabo and Kaza, at a height of close to 13,000 feet, the Dhankar village is the erstwhile capital of the Spiti Valley kingdom. During the 17th century, it was the seat of the early rulers of Spiti, the Nonos. The name Dhankar literally means ‘a place in the mountains unreachable for strangers.’ Surrounded by nothing but plenty of barren mountains, Dhankar is the place to be for those seeking true tranquility.

7. Living on the Edge - The View From the Dhankar Monastery

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At the top of the village, sits the famous Dhankar gompa, an ancient monastery belonging to the Gelugpa sect of Buddhism. The view from the Dhankar monastery is awe inspiring – the complex is built on a high spur overlooking the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers. An hour of breathless hiking from Dhankar monastery on a narrow trail takes one to the top of the hill, where one is greeted with a splendid view of Dhankar lake. Crystal clear water, snow capped hills as a backdrop, and fluffy clouds reflecting in the lake – this is a treat for any photographer!
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8. The Fossil Village of Spiti - Langza

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Nestled between the mountains, in a bowl shaped area in the Spiti Valley, is a small remote village named Langza. Travellers to Langza are greeted by a giant statue of a meditating Buddha, at the head of the village. Langza is also well known for its rich fossil reserves. Millions of years ago, Spiti lay submerged under the Tethys sea, which is why fossils of sea life can easily be found scattered close to the village. Regular fossil excursions for visitors are organized for a unique insight into the history of the Himalayas.

9. On the Way to Kaza

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Travellers making their way to Spiti's administrative hub, Kaza, get to enjoy numerous trekking routes, and open spaces and camping sites that promise an endless supply of solitude and scenic beauty. The nights are equally magical with unforgettable views of a velvety star-lit sky.

10. Kaza - The Base for Kibber and Kye Monastery

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Perched at an altitude of close to 12,000 feet, Kaza is one of those places were a traveller would want to simply sit and enjoy the stunning view and all-encompassing silence for hours. The remote village is home to the 14th century Tangyud Gompa, which is built beautifully in the form of an ancient fortified castle. While the famous Kye monastery is 12 kms away from Kaza, Kibber (the highest motorable village in the world) is 7 kms away.

11. A Blissfully Untouched Village Life

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The village homes in Spiti are constructed in the typical Himachali style with timber bonded stone. The rooftops of the houses are laden with fodder saved for the winter months. The villages, with their serene surroundings, Tibetan prayer stones and wandering, peaceful-looking yaks are a sight for sore eyes. If lucky, travellers can also attend a performance of the ancient wedding dance of Spiti, khaar.

12. Cheerful, Good-Natured and Sociable: The Locals of Spiti

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The villages of Spiti, though remote, are home to some of the kindest, friendliest people in India, and very welcoming of travellers. Braving harsh terrain and extreme weather, the locals work hard relentlessly to sustain their families. Yet, they are always cheerful and friendly and welcoming, the serenity of the surroundings reflecting in their faces.

13. Home to Hardy and Hardworking Women

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After the snow melts on the high peaks around the villages, the hard working women of Spiti start their annual summer routine. The livestock is taken to the grasslands for grazing before the women get busy cultivating  barley, potatoes and green peas. Travellers in Spiti are often welcomed warmly and offered cups of steaming tea, local brews and freshly cooked food by these ever-cheerful women.

14. The Sweet, Sun-kissed Children of Spiti

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Cheerful, inquisitive and sun-kissed, the local kids interact with friendly gusto with visitors. Time may appear to stand still in these secluded valleys but the carefree laughter of these children is a reminder that nothing is constant, not even the immovable looking shapes of the mountains.

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# Travel Tales: The 7 Best Places to See India’s Fantastic Fossil Finds

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People have been fascinated by fossils for thousands of years. Fossils are evidence of ancient life forms or ancient habitats; they are actual remains of once living things, such as bones or seeds, or even traces of past events such as animal footprints, or ripple marks on a prehistoric shore.

Whether a fossil is the skeleton of a dinosaur or the stony remains of a tree that lived long ago, it can transport us back through the eons, giving us a glimpse of life the way it was ages before we came into existence.

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There are several paleontolological sites across India where one can see fossils of the the country's earliest residents. However, as fossil sites are often exposed to the risk of plunder or destruction, they are protected by the Geological Survey of India.

Here are some of the best places in India to take a trip back in geological time. From the country's first dinosaur to the oldest human ancestor, these sites show an impressive range of fossils that are crucial in understanding Earth’s history.

1. The world’s most diverse marine animals - Zanskar Valley, Kashmir

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Around 550 million years ago, trilobites, a species of arthropods, lived in great numbers in virtually all the oceans. They were possibly the most diverse animals on Earth, with more than 15,000 known species of trilobites.  Then, around 250 million years ago, most trilobites went extinct. Less than 10% of all species survived, making this one of the largest mass extinctions on Earth. The trilobites at the Kurgiakh region of the Zanskar Valley are from the early Cambrian age and are similar to those found in south China and parts of Pakistan. They are also proof that millions of years ago the Himalayan mountains were certainly submerged under the Tethys sea.

2. First dinosaur fossil site in India with flora, fauna intact - Waddham, Maharashtra

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Waddham, a reserve forest, is a well-known fossils site where a full-fledged skeleton of a dinosaur was found near the Godavari basin in Maharashtra, bordering Telangana in 1959. The well preserved Barapasaurus skeleton is at present kept in the museum of Indian Statistical Institute (ISI) in Kolkata. Named the Waddham Fossil Park, this Jurassic period site houses the fossils of flora that existed when sauropods, the giant ‘vegetarian’ dinosaurs, walked this stretch of the Indian subcontinent. This has given the park the unique distinction of being the only dinosaur site in the Indian subcontinent to have fossils of both flora and fauna from that time.

3. A sanctuary of marine fossils - Manendragarh, Chhattisgarh

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The Marine Gondwana Fossil Park is a unique exposure of fossiliferous marine Permian rocks of the Talchir formation dating back to around 280-240 million years ago. Located in the Manendragarh area of Chattisgarh's Koriya district, the fossil faunal assemblage is indicative of the transgression of sea in this part of India about 20 crores of years ago. The park has plenty of fossils of marine bivalve molluscs and other marine fauna.

4. India’s first unique dinosaur species - Balasinor, Gujarat

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In 1981, scientists from the Geological Survey of India (GSI) accidentally discovered fossils in the sedimentary rocks of Raiyoli village in Balasinor. Since then, researchers have uncovered fossils of about 1000 dinosaur eggs, belonging to at least 13 species of dinosaurs, making Raiyoli in Balasinor the third largest dinosaur hatchery in the world. The site is also where Rajasaurus narmadensis, the first species of dinosaur (the gigantic, horned, 30-foot-long carnivore) unique to India, was identified in 2003. A very rare example of non-dinosaurian predation on dinosaurs was also found in the form of a fossilized dinosaur-eating snake named Sanajeh indicus.
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5.  One of a kind fossil park at the actual site of fossil discovery - Suketi, Himachal Pradesh

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Lying on the bank of River Markanda in Nahan, Suketi Fossil Park is a one of its kind park fossil park with a collection of prehistoric vertebrate fossils and skeletons recovered from the upper and middle Siwaliks' geological formations. This place is best known for its six life-size fibre glass models of extinct Mesozoic mammals that once roamed the area.  There is also a museum, within the precincts of the Park, where the unearthed fossils are curated and exhibited.

6. Perfectly preserved ancient trees - Thiruvakkarai, Tamil Nadu

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Around 35 km from Puducherry, the National Fossil Wood Park at Santhanur in Perambalur district has a rare collection of 200 fossilised trees. The petrified tree trunks are believed to be over 120 million years old and are evidence of the presence of a sea during the Cretaceous period in this area. Some of the fossilised tree trunks are up to 28 m in length and 5 m in girth. The majority of the fossil wood belong to conifer, gymnosperm and angiosperm species. Fine woody texture, the annular rings, the pit structures and the knots are intricately preserved.

7. India’s earliest human fossils- Hathnora, Madhya Pradesh

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On December 5, 1982, a team of scientists of the Geological Survey of India stumbled upon a fossilized piece of a skull bone at Hathnora on the banks of the Narmada in Madhya Pradesh. It turned out the bone was of a female hominin, the first early hominin fossil, an ancestor of modern humans, found in the Indian subcontinent. In 2012, another set of hominin fossils - a long bone of the arm and a thigh bone - were found at Netankheri, 3 km from Hathnora. While researchers are not sure as to which species of Homo the fossils belongs to, stone tools unearthed from the region date back from 800,000 to 10,000 years ago, indicating a long history of human presence at the site.
Also Read: How One Indian Organization is Trying to Preserve Ancient Indian Rock Art Found in Caves

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Forgotten by Time: 8 Legendary Lost Cities of India

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"The best journeys in life are those that answer questions you never thought to ask." - Rick Ridgeway.
Like humans, cities are mortal. They are born, they thrive, and they eventually die. Over the course of human history, an astonishing number of cities and towns have been lost, destroyed, submerged, and abandoned.

The mysterious, and often beautiful, ruins of these lost cities have sparked the imaginations of millions of travellers, history buffs and treasure seekers all across the world.

[caption id="attachment_70382" align="aligncenter" width="1024"]panaromic_view_of_the_natural_fortification_and_landscape_at_hampi Hampi[/caption]
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If you are in the mood for a little exploration along the trails of former civilizations, here are some of India’s most spectacular lost cities. From the lost city of Poompuhar to Pattadakkal, these awe-inspiring ruins will surely fuel your curiosity!

1. Poompuhar

[caption id="attachment_70375" align="aligncenter" width="638"]tranquebar-masilamani-nathar-temple Masilamani Nathar Koil temple[/caption]
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Once a flourishing ancient port city known as Kaveripoompattinam, Poompuhar served as the capital of the early Chola kings for a few years. The Sangam-era epics of Tamil literature, Silapathikaram and Manimekalai, extol and herald the city and the life of its people in detailLocated at the mouth of the Cauvery River, it is believed that much of the town was washed away by a powerful sea storm and the successive erosion it caused during 500 AD. In 2006, the National Institute of Ocean Technology conducted some underwater surveys that revealed the submerged remains of the ancient port city. A must-see on a visit to Poompuhar is the beautiful 13th century Masilamani Nathar Koil temple. Though heavily eroded by the sea in a number of places, this seaside temple's unique combination of Chinese and Tamil architecture gives visitors a glimpse of another time.

2. Hampi

[caption id="attachment_70358" align="aligncenter" width="800"]hampi-ruins Hampi[/caption]
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The capital of the famed Vijaynagar Empire from 1336 to 1565, Hampi was ruled by four dynasties — Sangama, Saluva, Tuluva and Aravidu. The princes of these dynasties built more than 500 monuments which won the admiration of ancient travellers. Conquered by the Deccan Muslim confederacy in 1565, the city was pillaged over a period of six months before being abandoned. Hampi’s spectacular setting is dominated by the mighty Tungabhadra river, craggy hill ranges with precariously perched boulders, and miles of undulating terrain, carpeted in lush green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. The Hampi Utsav, also known as Vijaya Utsav, is a cultural event organized here by the Karnataka government in January each year. The festival of Purandaradasa Aradhana conducted at the Vithala temple in the months of January or February is also famous. It is celebrated to honor the poet-composer Purandaradasa.

3. Muziris

[caption id="attachment_70359" align="aligncenter" width="549"]kizhthali-shiva-temple Kizhthali Shiva temple in Muziris[/caption]
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In the first century BC, Muziris in Kerala was one of India’s most important trading ports, whose exports – especially black pepper – kept even mighty Rome in debt. The Roman author Pliny, in his book Natural History, called Muziris "the first emporium of India". According to the Akananuru, a collection of Tamil poetry from the period, it was “the city where the beautiful vessels, the masterpieces of the Yavanas (foreign traders), stir white foam on the Periyar river of Kerala, arriving with gold and departing with pepper.” Tucked away in the tiny bylanes of Kerala's Kodungallur town, it's easy to miss the Muziris Heritage Project, one of India's biggest archaeological findings. Also known as the Pattanam excavations, the project has found conclusive evidence of what was once a flourishing trade port on the spice route. It has also found several monuments and religious sites that date back to the ancient era.

4. Lothal

[caption id="attachment_70369" align="aligncenter" width="1200"]1 World's earliest dockyard at Lothal[/caption] A vital and thriving trade centre of the Indus Valley civilization, Lothal had the world’s earliest known dockyard. Spanning an area of 37 meters from east to west and nearly 22 meters from north to south, the dock connected the city to an ancient course of the Sabarmati river, which was the trade route between Harappan cities in Sindh and the Saurashtra peninsula. In those days, the surrounding Kutch desert of today was a part of the Arabian Sea. One of  India's most important archaeological sites from the Indus Valley civilization, Lothal was discovered in the year 1954 and was excavated between 1955 and 1960 by the Archaeological Society of India (ASI).
You May Like16 Fascinating Facts about Mohenjodaro and Indus Valley, a Civilisation Far Ahead of its Time

5. Pattadakkal

[caption id="attachment_70370" align="aligncenter" width="650"]143_6110 Temple at Pattadakkal[/caption]
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With its harmonious blend of Nagara and Dravidian architectural forms, Pattadakal, in Karnataka, represents the high point of the eclectic style of art that developed under the Chalukya dynasty. The UNESCO World Heritage Site, located on the banks of river Malaprabha, has a stunning complex of several 8th century Shiva temples and a Jain sanctuary. One masterpiece that stands out from this group is the Temple of Virupaksha, built by Queen Lokamahadevi to commemorate her husband's victory over the Pallava kings of Kanchi. The government of Karnataka organizes the Virupaksha temple festival, the Mallikarjun temple festival and the Chalukya Utsav (a three-day dance festival) amidst the stunning sandstone ruins of Pattadakkal every year.

6. Kalibangan

[caption id="attachment_70365" align="alignnone" width="800"]kalibangan-fire-altars Fire Altars of Kalibangan[/caption]
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A settlement of the Indus Valley Civilization, Kalibangan was unearthed way back in 1962 by Dr. Ghosh of the Archaeological Survey of India. Kalibangan, which literally means black bangles, lies along the left bank of the dried-up bed of river Ghaggar in Rajasthan. Other than giving the evidence of the earliest ploughed agricultural field ever revealed through an excavation, Kalibangan also has several fire altars, which suggest that the Harappans believed in the ritualistic worship of fire. The Archaeological Museum of Kalibangan was set up in 1983 to house the excavated finds from this Harappan site. The exhibits in the galleries include Harappan seals, bangles, terracotta objects, terracotta figurines, bricks, grinders, and stone balls.

7. Vasai

[caption id="attachment_70361" align="aligncenter" width="650"]bassein_vasai Ruins of Vasai Fort[/caption]
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The Portuguese named it Baçaim. The Marathas renamed it Bajipur. The British named it Bassein and today it is called Vasai. When the Portuguese arrived, the ancient port city of Sopara was a significant trading centre under the rule of Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat. The Portuguese who took it from the Sultan, expanded the fort and turned it into a vibrant port city over the next two centuries, next in importance only to their headquarters in Goa. With its historic churches, mosques, temples, tiny villages, beautiful beaches, hot water springs and even a replica of the Sanchi stupa, Vasai is a magnificent microcosm of Mumbai's history. Interestingly, many popular international songs, like the 'Hymn for the Weekend' by British band Coldplay and 'Lean On' by EDM group Major Lazer, have been shot at Vasai.

8. Dholavira

[caption id="attachment_70367" align="aligncenter" width="600"]38_big Citadel Ruins at Dholavira[/caption]
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Dholavira, located in Khadir island of the Rann of Kutchch, is one of the five largest Harappan cities in the subcontinent. Today, what is seen as a fortified quadrangular city set in harsh arid land, was once a thriving metropolis for 1,200 years and had an access to the sea prior to the decrease in sea level. The water conservation system excavated at this remarkable site speaks volumes about the ingenuity of the people who developed a system of rainwater harvesting to support life in a parched landscape. Other than some of the best preserved Harappan-era stone architecture, a mysterious signboard in the Indus script has also been discovered at Dholavira. The excavation also revealed seven significant cultural stages in the city that document the rise and fall of the Indus Valley Civilization. Also Read: 9 Famous Indian Monuments and Structures You May Not Know Were Built by Women

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Setting the Stage: 12 Little Known Traditional Folk Theatre Forms of India

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"I regard the theatre as the greatest of all art forms, the most immediate way in which a human being can share with another the sense of what it is to be a human being." - Oscar Wilde
A fusion of music, dance, drama, stylized speech, and spectacle, folk theatre is a composite art form with deep roots in local identity and native culture. An important indigenous tool of interpersonal communication, this form of theater reflects the social-political realities of its time. India has a long, rich and illustrious history of folk theatre. In ancient times, Sanskrit dramas were staged at seasonal festivals or to celebrate special events. Between the 15th and the 19th centuries, actors and dancers were given special places of distinction in the courts of several Indian kings. For instance, in the 18th century, the tamasha folk theatre was patronized by the powerful Peshwas of the Maratha kingdom. The Maharajas of Travancore and Mysore also competed with each other to establish the superior talent of their drama troupes. The maharaja of Banaras was the producer and patron of grand ramlila, a 31-day play based on Ramayan with spectators numbering in thousands!

This led to the infusion of local myths, costumes, and masks into the ancient form of drama, resulting in the evolution of diverse regional styles of folk theatre. This tradition continued in the princely courts of India even under British rule.

[caption id="attachment_72186" align="aligncenter" width="650"]folk_012315054944 A folk theatre artist getting ready for performance[/caption] In the absence of urban theatre in most Indian cities (with the exception of metros like Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Bengaluru), folk theatre has kept the rural audiences entertained for centuries. It has also played an important part in the growth of modern theatres in different languages. Bhartendu Harishchandra, the 19th-century drama writer who is also known as the father of Hindi theatre, used to combine folk conventions with Western theatrical formsthat were popular at that time. Rabindrabath Tagore's plays reflect the influence of baul singers and folk theatre too. [caption id="attachment_72187" align="aligncenter" width="800"]devendrasharma_sultanadaku Nautanki[/caption]
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Today, folk theatre is considered an art form that keeps the basic elements of a drama intact, while taking on the stories and flavours of the region its stems from. This very aspect makes folk theater a vibrant and vital aspect of India's intangible cultural heritage.

While some folk theatre forms like raslila, nautanki and ramlila are recognized all over the country, there are some which, in spite of being equally amazing, remain largely unnoticed. Here is a list of 12 beautiful yet lesser known folk theatre forms from across India.

1. Koodiyattam

[caption id="attachment_72114" align="aligncenter" width="1920"]maxresdefault Koodiyattam[/caption]
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One of the oldest traditional theatre forms of India, Koodiyattam follows the performative principles of the ancient tradition of Sanskrit theatre. However, it has its own distinctive characteristics that are firmly rooted in the culture of Kerala. This theatre was traditionally a part of temple rituals performed in sacred theaters, called Koothambalams. In 2001, Koodiyattam was officially recognized by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

2. Yakshagana

[caption id="attachment_72111" align="aligncenter" width="1200"]yakshagana Yakshagana[/caption]
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Yakshagana is a popular folk theatre form of Karnataka with a long history of nearly four hundred years. It is a unique harmony of musical tradition, eye-catching costumes, and authentic styles of dance, improvised gestures and acting, with its extemporaneous dialogue holding a wide appeal. The themes are generally derived from the mythological stories and epics. Traditionally presented from dusk to dawn, this folk theatre is predominantly seen in the coastal districts of Karnataka, especially the Kasaragod region.

3. Swang

[caption id="attachment_72110" align="aligncenter" width="1600"]swang_raja_vikramaditya_in_mandi_house_src_new_delhi Swang[/caption]
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A popular folk theatre form in Haryana, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, Swang is centered around music. In this folk theatre, religious stories and folk tales are enacted and sung by a group of a dozen or so artistes. Characterized by loud rendering of dialogues and songs (a legacy of its open air performances in the past), Swang has two important styles - one that belong to Rohtak (performed in the Bangru language)and the other that belongs to Haathras (performed in the Brajbhasha language).

4. Bhand Paather

[caption id="attachment_72107" align="aligncenter" width="660"]2015_10largeimg09_friday_2015_233513837 Bhand Pather[/caption]
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The centuries old traditional theatre form of Kashmir, bhand pather is a unique combination of dance, music and acting. Satire, wit and parody are commonly used in this folk drama that incorporates local mythological legends and contemporary social commentary. Traditionally, the performances begin in the evening with a ritualistic dance called chhok. The play unfolds gradually after this and ends in the early hours of the morning. Interestingly,the performers or bhands dance to the tune of specific instruments like the mukam, swarnai, dhol and nagara.
You May LikeThe Man Who is Reviving an Ancient Urdu Storytelling Form Using Sufism, Ramayana & More

5. Ankiya Naat Bhaona

[caption id="attachment_72105" align="aligncenter" width="1024"]ram-bijoy-performed-by-top-50-actresses-of-assam-recently-in-mavalankar-hall-15 Ankiya Naat Bhaona[/caption]
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Bhaona is a presentation of the Ankiya Naat, a one-act play that has its roots in rural Assam. A creation of Srimanta Sankardeva (an Assamese saint-scholar), these plays were written in Brajavali, a unique Assamese-Maithili mixed language, and are primarily centered on Hindu diety, Krishna. The dialogues, costumes, ornaments, entry and foot movements of bhaona are unique and set this theatre form apart from others in India.

6. Tamasha

[caption id="attachment_72104" align="aligncenter" width="800"]tamasha-folk-theatre-the-dying-folk-art-form-of-maharashtra_f899139df5e1059396431415e770c6dd Tamasha[/caption]
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A traditional folk theatre form of Maharashtra, tamasha flourished in the courts of Maratha rulers of the 18th and 19th centuries and attained its artistic peak during the reign of Baji Rao II . It has evolved from the folk forms such as gondhal, jagran and kirtan. Unlike other theatre forms, in tamasha, the female actress is the lead performer and the chief exponent of dance in the play. Classical music, the lightning fast footwork of the lavani dance, and vivid gestures of the performers gives this folk theatre a distinctive charachter.

7. Therukoothu

[caption id="attachment_72103" align="aligncenter" width="1600"]koothu-2 Therukoothu[/caption]
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A unique form of rural entertainment in Tamil Nadu, therukoothu literally means street theatre. Some influence of classical Sanskrit drama on it is apparent. Performed in the open, mostly during temple festivals in villages, this theatre primarily draws from mythological stories and epics. The performance includes lively dances and songs sung in a high pitch by the male actors (even the female roles are played by males) who wear wide colorful costumes, sparkling shoulder plates, elaborate head-dresses and thick bright make-up.

8. Jatra

[caption id="attachment_72100" align="aligncenter" width="992"]dhanujatra_ended_21 Jatra[/caption]
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The jatra, also popular in Orissa and eastern Bihar, originated in Bengal in the 15th century as a result of the Bhakti movement - it was initially known as Krishna jatra due to Chaitanya's (spiritual founder of Gaudiya Vaishnavism) influence. Over the years, the jatra repertoire swelled with love stories and socio-political themes. While initially this theatre was primarily musical, today, jatra performances consists mainly of action-packed dialogues with few songs.

9. Bhavai

[caption id="attachment_72096" align="aligncenter" width="724"]bhavai4-jpg Bhavai[/caption]
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Bhavai is the traditional theatre form of the Kutch and Katiawar region of Gujarat. Subtle social criticism laced with humour is the speciality of this theatre that also uses instruments like the bhungal, pakhaawaj, rabaab, sarangi and manjeera. This folk theatre is as much a dramatic form of entertainment as it is a kind of ritual offering made to the Hindu goddess, Amba. The genesis of bhavai is traced back to a 14th century Brahmin priest, Asaita Thakar, who is believed to have written as many as 360 bhavai performances out of which only 60 survive today.

10. Dashavtaar

[caption id="attachment_72095" align="aligncenter" width="1813"]dashavatar_group_pic Dashavatar[/caption]
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Dashavatar is a folk theatre form practiced by farmers of the Konkan coast, especially in the Sindhudurg district of of Maharashtra and the North Goa district of Goa. In dashavatar, the performers personify the ten incarnations of Vishnu, the Hindu God Vishnu of preservation and creativity - Matsya (fish), Kurma (tortoise), Varaha (boar), Narsimha (lion-man), Vaman (dwarf), Parashuram, Rama, Krishna, Buddha and Kalki. It is traditionally performed after midnight during the annual festival of the village deity. Apart from stylized make-up, the dashavatar performers also wear masks of wood and papier mache. The performance is accompanied by three musical instruments: a paddle harmonium, tabla and zanj (cymbals).

11. Karyala

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="990"]karyala-990x557 Karyala[/caption]
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A traditional folk theatre form of Himachal Pradesh, karyala is normally performed around the Dussehra festival, i.e. in October-November. With local variants all over Himachal Pradesh (banthada in Mandi, budechhu in Sirmaur and bhagtu in Kangra), karyala generally derives its theme from the daily life and concerns of the villagers. The open-air performance is prefaced by virtuoso drumming, uses minimal props and often incorporates dance and comic acts.

12. Ramman

[caption id="attachment_72092" align="alignnone" width="900"]29-12-2016 Ramman[/caption]
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Ramman is a ritual theatre that is a part of a religious festival in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. Every year in late April, the twin villages of Saloor-Dungra in the state of Uttarakhand (northern India) celebrate a religious festival in honour of the village deity, Bhumiyal Devta. An eponymous art form unique to these villages (it is neither replicated nor performed anywhere else in the country), ramman is made up of highly complex rituals that involve the recitation of a version of the epic Ramayana and various legends. This is also accompanied by the performance of local songs and masked dances.
Also ReadIn This Tiny Karnataka Village, Farmers and Shopkeepers Debate over Shakespeare and Kalidas

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Peek Into the Past: These Mysterious Menhirs in Mizoram Hold the Key to a Lost Civilisation!

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A paradise unexplored, northeast India is not just a treasure trove of cultural and natural wonders, it also has an astonishingly rich archaeological heritage. Recently, Indian archaeologists made an exciting discovery in Mizoram – the jungle-clad remains of a lost civilization that may hold the key to hitherto unknown facts about northeast India. Located close to the Myanmar border, the lush forested village of Vangchhia lies nestled in the Champhai-Farkawn mountain range of Mizoram. For years, hundreds of megalithic stone sentinels or menhirs have stood guard in this little village.

A revered site for them, the locals call it the Kawtchhuah Ropuithe or the Great Gateway, a name that was as enigmatic as the engravings on the menhirs.

[caption id="attachment_72254" align="aligncenter" width="1500"]embossed_figures_kawtchhuah_ropui_vangchhia_mapuia_hnamte_1 Engravings on a menhir at Vangchchia[/caption]
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It was in the summer of 2010 that this rare site finally came into the archaeological spotlight. P Rohmingthanga, the convener of the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH)’s Mizoram chapter, was touring the Mizo countryside to discover and document lesser-known heritage sites. Fascinated by the mysterious menhirs of Vangchhia, Rohmingthanga urged the Archaeological Survey of India to investigate the site. Thanks to this retired IAS officer's consistent efforts, ASI’s director-general Rakesh Tiwari (the first archaeologist to hold the organisation’s top job in over two decades) accepted an invitation to visit Vangchhia. Accompanied by a team of ASI archaeologists and INTACH officials, he visited the remote village in November 2015.

Excited by the discovery of ancient pot shards at one of the sites, the ASI director-general soon dispatched an excavation team to Vangchhia.

[caption id="attachment_72255" align="aligncenter" width="640"]cp_1_1446204143 P Rohmingthanga and Rakesh Tiwari with the ASI team[/caption]
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In the excavations that followed, the team discovered as many as 20 cobbled stone structures, reminiscent of ancient graves, fragments of ancient charcoal and several organic remains that were sent to specialized laboratories for radio carbon dating. However, the find that excited the team the most, was a 200-meter long water pavilion(a pool of water surrounded by an elevated platform that acts as a recreational area), a stone structure similar to those found in Mughal cities that was probably used as an entertainment arena.

This was a huge discovery because the archaeologists believed that the existence of a water pavilion indicated the strong likelihood of a prosperous ancient settlement in the region.

[caption id="attachment_72257" align="aligncenter" width="1600"]dscn0178 Engraved menhir at Vangchhia[/caption]
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Recalling the expedition, Dr. Sujeet Nayan (Assistant Superintending Archaeologist at ASI Delhi and Director of the Vangchhia excavation) told Northeast Live,
"We were exploring what lay beneath the bushes and thick foliage of the forest. It was amazing to stumble upon so many things. This site could hold traces of a lost city or even a greater lost civilization. Which is why we need more time and research to reach a final conclusion."
The first ASI excavation team camped at Vangchhia for about a month. Their preliminary archaeological excavations suggested that the village could be one of the largest necropolis sites in the world, besides providing clues to an ancient civilization.
Also ReadForgotten by Time: 8 Legendary Lost Cities of India

Over the following months, other teams came to the area to try to uncover the secrets of the settlement that may have once existed there. Efforts were also made to gain some insight into the unclear and undated origin of menhirs.

[caption id="attachment_72256" align="aligncenter" width="640"]cp_2_1446204145 ASI teams at Vangchhia[/caption]
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One of the most fascinating discoveries made at Vangchhia is the Pipute Lamlian. Roughly translating to ancestors’ pathway in Mizo, Pipute Lamlian is the apparent remains of a footpath that travels through Vangchhia before ultimately forking out in three directions, the north, the south and the east. Lined with rocks bearing engravings of bison-heads, flowers and human figures (similar to those at Kawtchhuah Ropui), the pathway looks like a rough staircase had been built into the mountainside. [caption id="attachment_72260" align="aligncenter" width="800"]kawtchhuah_ropui_vangchhia_mapuia_hnamte_1 A pathway of monolithic menhirs[/caption]
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Similar megalithic stones have also been found near the villages of Farkawn, Lianpui, Khankawn, Khawbung, and Vaphai in Mizoram. In another unique find, remnants of small man-made cave dwellings, topped with menhirs taller than an average full-grown man, have been unearthed at the hilltop village of Dungtlang. [caption id="attachment_72261" align="aligncenter" width="1200"]embossed_figures_kawtchhuah_ropui_mapuia_hnamte_1 Engraved menhirs of Vangchhia[/caption]
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Locals believe that a historic migration across the Chin Hills of Myanamar was documented for perpetuity in the mysterious engravings on these menhirs. There is even a local folk legend that Kawtchhuah Ropui is the entrance to a secret pathway that runs all the way to the Tiau river on the Indo-Myanmar border. This is why researchers believe that these megalithic stones could finally lift the fog over the history of how the Mizo community came to occupy the lands they do today. [caption id="attachment_72258" align="aligncenter" width="1600"]dscn0169 The entrance to Kawtchhuah Ropui[/caption]
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While the ASI's research teams have gleaned some interesting information about the menhirs and settlements through their excavations, the big questions still remain. How old are these menhirs? Who were the people who erected them and used them as a canvas? How were these huge boulders transported up the steep mountainside from the riverbanks (the only apparent stone quarry) deep down in the valley? With the current interest in Vangchhia, and sites around it, it can only be hoped that further research will help decipher the mystery of Mizoram's fascinating monoliths.
You May Like: 14 Fascinating and Perplexing Unsolved Mysteries of Indian History

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TBI Blogs: In Conversation With the Architect Behind the Restoration of Mumbai’s Famous Rajabai Clock Tower

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Conservation architect Vikas Vedprakash Dilawari is the brains behind the restoration of several Mumbai gems, including the Bhau Daji Lad museum, Flora Fountain, Esplanade House, Alpaiwala Museum and the Lal Chimney Compound. It’s 2:30 pm on a Monday and it seems to be a very busy afternoon at the office of Vikas Dilawaris Architects, located in Jawahar Nagar, Goregaon West; the company is owned by Vikas Vedprakash Dilawari, a 48-year-old Conservation Architect. The office is filled with young employees, some are busy working on their computers, others are taking prints and still others are rushing into the cabin inside for a discussion with their boss. After a while, putting all his work aside, he begins speaking:
"During the 1950s to the 1960s, my father came to Mumbai from Kashmir, to set up his own business. Even back in those days, Mumbai was considered The City of Gold, The Land of Opportunities and The Dreamers' Paradise! He established his business here in Goregaon, which was a pleasant neighbourhood, since he owned a house here. Hence, my brother and I were born here in Mumbai."
Bracketed on either side of the railway line by the Western Express Highway and Linking Road, Goregaon was primarily a middle-class residential neighbourhood. Until the late 1970s, the suburb was sparsely populated. This began to change when residential localities began to spring up.
"One of our favorite games during childhood days was to play with dragonflies and butterflies. Back in those days, there were no compound walls for houses, so my neighbourhood friends and me used to often spill out on the road to play. There were so many talavs, trees and birds. Mumbai gave me a beautiful childhood! But slowly slowly the birds started disappearing and houses started building compounds walls for safety reasons. Then came the box windows, the grills, the CCTVs... the list goes on and on now. And also, the concept of ‘neighbourhood friends’ does not exist anymore,” he says with disappointment.

During his school days in Jamnabai Narsee School, Juhu, Vikas Dilawari was very fascinated with history. But it was only when he started his B. A. in Architecture at the L S Raheja School in 1985 that he really discovered the architectural heritage of the city.

vda “Up until then, I hadn’t seen many of the heritage buildings,” he says. “I had always loved history, so my interest in historical buildings was natural I suppose.” Architecture school introduced him to many of our city’s beautiful structures, but it also showed him how little they were appreciated.
“We had an academic exercise where we were supposed to redesign Crawford Market. I tried to conserve it, but didn’t get good marks – people who demolished it got the best marks, so it motivated me to study further and do my thesis on it, just to prove that I was not wrong in conserving it. Hence, I landed up doing conservation, and there’s been no looking back since. Back then, conservation involved a lot of activism because it was not in fashion,” says Dilawari.

After he decided that he wanted to specialise in conservation architecture, he enrolled for an M. A. in the subject at the School of Planning and Architecture in New Delhi.

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In 1990, he was among the first batch of Indian students with this specialisation. “When I got my degree, no one knew what it was because the concept of conservation architecture was introduced in India in 1985— so they thought I was doing ‘conversation architecture’,” he says with a laugh. Back then, heritage buildings didn’t offer as much work or pay as other types of architecture. “Working as a conservation architect has definitely involved sacrifices,” says Dilawari. “You can’t make big money, although it is getting more comfortable now. Back then, getting to do small work on the exterior of the building was considered to be a great thing and interior work was out the question. Conservation is not like [contemporary] architecture or interior design: there are no quick projects. During my initial days we used to volunteer with various NGOs to conserve the buildings that the government wanted to demolish,” he adds.

Between 1986 and 1991, Dilawari began his career with the first heritage conservation project in the country, the Gaiety Theatre project in Shimla, under Ved Segan, the architect of Prithvi Theatre.

[caption id="attachment_72720" align="aligncenter" width="500"]773707_563018773747026_1016695487_o Gaiety Theatre, Shimla[/caption]
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Since then, Dilawari has actively helped build an infrastructure for conservation architecture, which was near non-existent when he started working. Perhaps the most important work has been putting together a skilled labour force: “Since conservation demands a lot of handcrafted work, there was huge requirement for good craftsmen. The difficulty in finding craftsmen who are professionals in working with traditional materials and delivering good quality of work is major challenge that we face even today.” Inspite of all the challenges, in 2001, his restoration of the Rajabai Clock Tower, built between 1869 and 1878, received a UNESCO Asia Pacific Special Mention Award.

Years later, in 2005, his work on the 140-year-old Bhau Daji Lad museum in Byculla received the Award for Excellence - the only building in the city to have received this honour.

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His portfolio of work also includes an impressive array of other iconic Mumbai structures including: Flora Fountain, Esplanade House, Alpaiwala Museum (the only Parsi museum in the world), JN Petit Library, Army Navy Building, Standard Chartered Bank Office, Lal Chimney compound, Marzaban Colony in Mumbai Central, Royal Bombay Yacht Club Residential Chambers in Apollo Bunder and many more.

His work has been recognized by UNESCO 10 times, making him one of India’s top conservation architects.

[caption id="attachment_72722" align="aligncenter" width="500"]8175868875_296e2e9713_b Flora Fountain[/caption]
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"The field of conservation architecture needs patience and also in-depth knowledge about the history of the building one is working with. It’s all about getting the building to look the way it was originally built," he says. Many a times, getting back the authentic look of a building led to Vikas Dilawari travelling across the globe. For example, to find the right hue for the Bhau Daji Lad museum was a particularly time-consuming process. Dilawari visited Victorian heritage buildings in the UK to make sure that the colours he found matched the ones under the layers of paint, operating much like a detective searching buildings for clues.

The process of sensitizing people about the value of heritage is the most important one and Dilawari is exploring all avenues to raise the next generation of conservation architects to whom he can pass the baton.

[caption id="attachment_72723" align="aligncenter" width="500"]Lal Chimney Compound Lal Chimney Compound[/caption]
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He also conducts heritage walks as a means of raising awareness. After all, it was through heritage walks organized by his college that he fell in love with historic buildings. “I take children from my daughters’ school for these walks,” he says. “After all, we need to really think about the legacy that we are going to leave behind. Is it only redevelopment or we going to preserve our architectural heritage? My wife says that my future is in ruins but I tell her that ruins are what makes an archeologist happy,” he laughs. To read similar stories and explore places through people, extend your support to The People Place Project here
Featured image source: 1, 2, 3

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How an Archaeologist from Kolkata Aims to Save the City’s Monuments through Heritage Walks

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Many of Kolkata’s heritage buildings are in dire need of renovation. Archaeologist Tathagata Neogi’s new initiative seeks to empower the city’s residents to save and spruce up these remnants of history. Boasting a rich socio-political and cultural history, Kolkata is one of India’s biggest and most intriguing cities. Its people’s love for mishti (sweets) is as legendary as their affinity for literature and the arts, and Victoria Memorial and Howrah Bridge are recognizable at a single glance. Yet, the city — like all metropolises — also has a secret history not everyone is privy to. It lies in its abandoned buildings, old winding streets; nooks and corners that once teemed with life but now lie forgotten. You may stumble upon them once in awhile, but these histories are generally elusive even to the most entrenched city locals.

With his initiative Heritage Walks Calcutta due for launch in February, Tathagata Neogi has taken it upon himself to introduce Kolkata’s obscure histories and encourage conservation among locals.

[caption id="attachment_82925" align="alignnone" width="1024"]Tathagata (extreme right) on a heirtage walk at Park Street Cemetery, Kolkata Tathagata on a walk at Park Street Cemetery, Kolkata[/caption] “I grew up in Kolkata, and all of this time I wished that there were some opportunities to explore Kolkata’s rich tapestry of cultural heritage,” says Tathagata, a University of Exeter alumnus who has switched from teaching to pursuing this full-time. “The tours on offer were largely targeted at a foreign audience and were expensive beyond the reach of locals. This is when I thought about starting something on my own which — while of course welcoming tourists from across the world — is mainly targeted at the locals.” The primary objective of Heritage Walk Calcutta is to offer well-researched, affordable walking tours and workshops in Kolkata to spread community awareness about the city’s cultural heritage. Tathagata’s archaeological background ensures that the walks and workshops are thoroughly researched and off the beaten track.

These walks will take you to Chitpore Road, recorded to be older than Kolkata itself; or China Town, a quaint, vibrant part of town where Chinese settlers have lived since the 18th century.

[caption id="attachment_82926" align="alignnone" width="1066"]An old building in China Town, Kolkata An old building in China Town, Kolkata[/caption] You could also step back in time and retrace the steps of Lt Col Markwood, who drew the first (and earliest surviving) map of Calcutta’s European settlement in 1784. And there are more to come. “Watch out for the one on murder and mayhem in colonial Calcutta!” he quips.

In designing the walks, HWC emphasises the promotion of community archaeology - organising archaeological and heritage projects with the local community’s participation.

[caption id="attachment_82930" align="alignnone" width="1024"]A 19th-century British Salt Factory in Howrah A 19th-century British Salt Factory in Howrah[/caption] “Community archaeology creates a way for experts in history, archaeology, heritage conservation, and even museum professionals, to share their knowledge with members of the community – who are then empowered to properly maintain and manage their local cultural heritage,” says Tathagata. “This is important because the people in the community, who live around aspects of local history and interact with it every day, are the ones who can really make significant contributions to how that history is treated and conserved. Therefore, it is essential for experts like us to come out of our comfort-zones, engage with the community and provide them with advanced knowledge and professional training so that they can properly interact with, and preserve various aspects of, cultural heritage in a time of rapid urban development.” The key to imbibing this spirit of conservation lies in facilitating early exposure to archaeology, heritage and conservation. Along with curated walks, HWC aims to partner with educational institutions to offer interactive, practical and age-specific workshops to spread awareness for community participation in the recording, protection and conservation of heritage.
He says, “we also plan to offer these workshops for the community at large, to train people of all ages to record, protect and preserve individual histories, family histories, community histories and local histories. We think that all of these are important for making a collective history of Calcutta, or any other urban or rural space.”

The need for conservation is acute as only a small number of historical structures in Kolkata — and many other urban cities — receive recognition and conservation effort.

[caption id="attachment_82935" align="alignnone" width="1024"]Glimpses of Chitpore Road Chitpore Road[/caption] There is little information available on these structures, even to locals. Tathagata highlights areas such as Chitpore Road and Bhowanipore that are in dire need of restoration, but also empathises with the government’s manpower and funding limitations. In such circumstances, empowerment and training can ensure that residents eagerly undertake the preservation of the cultural heritage of their own neighbourhoods. “While it is impossible to protect every old building, we can at least work towards recording them before some are destroyed,” he says. In walks curated in preparation for HWC’s formal launch, Tathagata has received a favourable response from locals, especially youngsters. In the preliminary walks, organised in and around Kolkata, only two participants have been foreigners and the rest locals. Tathagata is currently seeking sponsors and collaborators for the walks. “We are also happy to hear from any early career researchers or academics in history, heritage, archaeology or related fields who are willing to lead research-based walking tours,” he says.
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The first year plans for HWC includes adding more walking tours and day tours both inside and outside of Kolkata, and gradually expanding to other, historically important parts of West Bengal with the help of local academics and researchers. “In the next five years, I want to explore different pathways to build heritage awareness and the community capacity in local communities throughout West Bengal,” Tathagata says. Heritage Walk Calcutta launches on February 12, 2017. To participate in walks, collaborate or sponsor an event, email heritagewalkcalcutta@gmail.com or call +919995813775.

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TBI Blogs: A Unique Museum Near Jaipur Is Helping Artisans Preserve a 500-Year-Old Handicraft Tradition

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Industrialisation and rising consumer demand have severely affected a lot of traditional art forms and handicraft industries. Anokhi Museum in Rajasthan is trying to preserve such a dying handicraft and art form – hand printing. The two-story pink sandstone haveli in the dusty lanes of Amber is usually easy to miss. Many of the locals know this as Chanwar Palkiwalaon ki Haveli, and not Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, eight miles outside Jaipur, where women clad in the most colourful of sarees suspend their chat to wave at you.  The museum focuses on contemporary fabric, ranging from innovative designs created by talented artisans to traditional outfits still worn in select regions today, albeit in dwindling numbers. A focused selection of historic textiles provides a context for further understanding of block printing. The one-of-its-kind museum is an endeavour to preserve the community of artisans of 500-year-old block printing in Rajasthan. It was started by Anokhi, a clothing line selling block-printed garments in stores across in India. The company was the brainchild of a British woman who married an Indian and moved to Jaipur in 1970.

Faith Singh worked with local craftsmen to create contemporary prints on textiles that have become so popular in India and abroad.

[caption id="attachment_747" align="aligncenter" width="646"]image source: http://josephinewilson.com/?p=417 Source: A Traveller’s Tale[/caption] It was Ms. Singh’s daughter-in- law Rachel Bracken-Singh who restored the dilapidated 17th- century mansion—which once belonged to the palanquin bearers of the royals—and turned it into a museum. This preservation project earned a UNESCO award for ‘Cultural Heritage Conservation’ in 2000. The old but well-maintained building is a cool relief from the desert heat. Large boards in the open courtyard explain the lengthy process of hand block printing. It all begins with the design to be printed on the textile. Once finalised—often floral, paisley, or geometric—they are carved by hand onto wooden blocks which have been soaked in oil overnight and cleaned.

These blocks are then used to print the pattern onto fabrics using natural vegetable dyes like indigo, pomegranate rind, and turmeric, in vibrant blues, reds, and greens. 

[caption id="attachment_84476" align="aligncenter" width="500"]Source: Bring Home Stories Source: Bring Home Stories[/caption] More than 100 garments and blocks are on permanent display inside alcoves and galleries across two floors. There are ethnic designs and patterns, and also Western clothes in traditional prints, like knee-length dresses in shades of red and russet. On the roof-top terrace, a few craftsmen sit with their tools, ready to demonstrate their work to interested visitors. The museum also offers a 2-day course in block-printing and wood-carving to enthusiasts. The museum shop carries a selection of hand-crafted merchandise, which includes limited edition textiles, clothing, furnishings, jewellery, books, and cards. Anokhi is trying to preserve the dying craft which has been overpowered by the more efficient and economical machine-printing process, damaging the livelihood of the artisans and threatening to extinguish an important craft. But it has a modern approach too. The team is always looking for new craftsmen and techniques to develop new garments in the main workshop on the outskirts of Jaipur.

They have worked with a British designer to re-interpret William Morris’s prints, made costumes inspired by Russian theatre, and worked their patterns into contemporary fashion—all of which the museum showcases in temporary exhibitions.

[caption id="attachment_84478" align="aligncenter" width="500"]Source: Anokhi Museum Source: Anokhi Museum[/caption] Together with garments – Indian and Western in design – home textiles, sarongs, and accessories, Anokhi offers a diverse and colourful selection of products in its 27 outlets in major cities of India. Anokhi doesn't offer e-commerce. Ms. Rachel Bracken-Singh, the museum’s director, says, “The museum offers regular workshops throughout the year. These are usually against request, and range from individuals and small groups of enthusiasts to large school groups, from within India, as well as visiting from abroad. We tend to tweak the workshops to suit particular needs. While most workshops involve block-printing, we also offer block-carving workshops. Throughout the day, the on-site printers and carvers demonstrate their skills, and offer interactive sessions with visitors as they walk around.” The response to the museum, and what people enjoy most, varies quite a bit. While most people love to try their own hand at block-printing and also block-carving, there is a very clear appreciation for the overall quality of the experience—from start to finish—in all the spaces at the museum. The museum’s management has given a great deal of attention to clear and concise information and good visuals. They have also taken great care to maintain a high standard of care for the various textiles, tools, techniques, etc. The building is well worth a visit for that alone! Visitors leave feeling they have had a very positive, informative, satisfying, and holistic experience.

Anokhi funds the museum, which does not take outside financial support. The small shop there and the museum’s publications go a little way to supporting some of the costs.

[caption id="attachment_83953" align="aligncenter" width="500"]jaipur1 Source: Anokhi Museum[/caption] Rachel recommends that visitors coming to the museum give as much time as possible for a complete experience. She adds, “Appreciate one of India’s most beloved indigenous crafts, set in a beautifully restored 16th century haveli. Interact with the craftspeople and well-informed staff. Enjoy desi chai in a clay pot with a view of Amber’s enduring heritage, and savour a unique experience.” This article originally appeared on Nazariya. Find out more about the art of hand printing and block printing on Anokhi’s website.

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#TravelTales: Move over Prague! India’s First Heritage Village of Pragpur Will Wow One & All

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The scenic Kangra Valley in Himachal Pradesh is no stranger to heritage and history. In fact, it even lends its name to a mid-18th century school of miniature painting. It is also home to Pragpur, a quaint little village that drew attention when the state government, in 1997, certified it as a Heritage Village, making it the first such village in India. [caption id="attachment_85033" align="aligncenter" width="770"]13pragoverview Pragpur, India's first heritage village.[/caption]
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Founded in the late 16th century by the Kuthiala Soods in memory of Princess Prag Dei of the Jaswan royal family, Pragpur well deserves its heritage village tag. With its winding cobbled lane, mud-plastered walls and slate-roofed houses, this village offers what most destinations can only dream of promising -- a return, if briefly, to the simple life of an erstwhile era. According to local folklore, it was in the early 19th century that the prosperous Kuthiala Sood community arrived and settled here. These merchants travelled abroad and returned home to build mansions, schools and hospitals in architectural styles that matched what they observed during their visits. [caption id="attachment_85034" align="aligncenter" width="500"]13thestreet Cobbled lanes of Pragpur[/caption]
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This is why, for an obscure part of Himachal Pradesh, Pragpur has houses in extremely varied architectural styles — Kangra, Rajput, British, Portuguese and even Italian. The grandest of these structures is The Judge's Court, the 300-year-old ancestral home of Vijai and Rani Lal, which has been converted into a posh resort. Vijai Lal is the grandson of Justice Sir Jai Lal, the second Indian to become a Judge of the Punjab High Court. Lovingly restored over several years, The Judge's Court is Pragpur's chief attraction. Set amidst expansive acreage replete with mango and litchi orchards, this two-storey brick-red mansion has six spacious rooms furnished with colonial-era furniture and paintings. [caption id="attachment_85043" align="aligncenter" width="1100"]256640_16060218160043071975 The Judge's Court[/caption]
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A cobbled lane outside the mansion gates winds through Pragpur village to the ornamental water tank called Taal. Built before 1868, the Taal is said to form the core of the village and is surrounded by several old community structures like the Nehar Bhawan, Naun, and Dhunichand Bhardial Serai. The village market also starts here. A short walk from the market is a remarkable house that belongs to Brij Bihari Lal Butel with beautifully carved wooden doors and intricate metalwork on railings. As Lal Butel had six sons, the building was designed to accommodate six families with rooms constructed around a sunken central courtyard. This sunken courtyard was filled with water during the summer months to provide a natural cooling system to the entire haveli. [caption id="attachment_85040" align="aligncenter" width="550"]pragpur-village-tank Pragpur's village tank[/caption]
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Another beautiful heritage building is Lala Rerumal's haveli, which has a Mughal-style garden, a pleasure terrace and a large water reservoir. The Chaujjar mansion, ancient temples, courtyards of the Sood clan; and attiyalas or public platforms are other places of interest in Pragpur.
Also Read#TravelTales: Exploring the Kumaoni Village Where Bob Dylan, George Harrison and Nehru Vacationed
Though late to acquire the heritage status, but barely 3 km away from Pragpur, is Garli village. This hamlet too has plenty of heritage buildings. Of these, the most prominent is the house of the timber merchant and late lawyer Rai Bahadur Mohan Lal, who also built many other noteworthy buildings here. Another lovely house is that of Mela Ram Sood with its unique brick jali wall. [caption id="attachment_85039" align="aligncenter" width="578"]35 The heritage houses of Pragpur[/caption]
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Most of these houses boast of fancy tile-work, carved wooden eaves, ornamental towers, stained glass windows, and antique collections that include rare books and etched glass objects. While some of these buildings are in a state of disrepair, a majority of them have remained unspoiled due to the efforts of the villagers of Pragpur and Garli. The village committee of Pragpur, which has been recording its meeting since 1864, is responsible for the maintenance of the heritage buildings and ancient water systems. Any new construction taking place in these villages must be ratified by the committee. Several heritage structures are now being restored using original techniques but with modern facilities to boost tourism. This makes sure that the village's architecture stays the same and does not lose its charm. Pragpur can also be the base to explore the popular religious destinations of Jwalaji and Chintpurni. The lesser known Dada Siba shrine offers glorious views of the snow-capped Dhauladhar range. Dada Siba was a small state whose ruling dynasty was an offshoot of the royal house of Kangra. [caption id="attachment_85042" align="aligncenter" width="550"]dada-siba-temple The stunning Dada Siba shrine[/caption]
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Raja Ram Singh, who ruled over the state about two hundred years ago,was a man of artistic tastes. An ardent devotee of Krishna, he built a beautiful shrine dedicated to his favourite deity. The walls of the shrine are covered with breathtakingly elaborate and richly coloured Kangra-style miniature paintings. You can also visit Chamba Pattan (6 km from Pragpur), Maharana Pratap Bird Sanctary on Pong Dam (30 km from Pragpur), Masroor rock cut temple (55 km from Pragpur) and Dharamshala (60 km from Pragpur). Then there is the Lohri festival in January that adds to the cheer and the Nakki ka Mela (wrestling fair) that steers in the festive spirit. [caption id="attachment_85038" align="aligncenter" width="592"]24 Masroor Rock Cut temples[/caption]
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Getting There: By Air: Gaggal airport is 45 km away & Amritsar's international airport is 170 km away. By Rail: An overnight train, Himachal Express, connects Delhi with Amb/Una. Pragpur is 60 km by road from here. Various trains connect Delhi with Pathankot that is further connected by a narrow gauge Kangra railway line to Guler (30 km away). By Road: Chandigarh and Amritsar are at a comfortable driving distance from Pragpur.
Also ReadThe Gunehar Experiment: How a Remote Himalayan Hamlet Was Transformed into a Thriving Art Hub

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TBI Blogs: The Next Time You’re in Jodhpur, Visit the ‘Chappalon Wali Gali’, and Help Empower Artisans in Need!

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In the narrow lanes of the historical city of Jodhpur, a community has been creating the signature Jodhpuri chappals tirelessly for generations. Art. The term is vast and enveloping, a gamut of expressions. It is extremely difficult to define art in its entirety. It is highly appreciated in galleries, traversing through paintings, murals, and sculptures, and at the same time, unexplored, found in hundreds of nooks and crannies of ever-so-vibrant India. Art is created everyday by hundreds of artisans, unknown and unheard of. In one of its documentation trips, Project Kalayatra navigated through Jodhpur’s Sardar Market to discover a community of artists creating one of India’s favourite footwear—the Jodhpuri chappals. The history of footwear in India can be traced back to the Vedic period. To put it in easy terms, Indians have been wearing shoes and sandals, forever. In the midst of the evolution to international brands and unconventional designs, there have been things closer home, which still find abundant space in our hearts and wardrobes alike.

Jodhpuri chappals, enclosed in multiple hues, are the protagonist today.

[caption id="attachment_86708" align="aligncenter" width="4272"]Jodhpuri chappal's sole creation Beginning of the tale—soles for the Jodhpuri chappal. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] A walk through the “Chappalon Wali Gali” behind the city’s Clock Tower leads to a narrow nondescript lane. Awaiting no second glances, the lane looks like any of the hundreds winding around Jodhpur, famous for its 15th century Mehrangarh Fort. “Chappalon wali gali” literally translates to “the Footwear Street”.

Lined on both sides are a dozen houses, rhythmically constructing their version of art in the form of Jodhpuri chappals.

[caption id="attachment_86723" align="aligncenter" width="4272"]Jodhpuri chappals in multiple hues Myriad of colours. Jodhpuri chappals are some of the most vibrant footwear created in India. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] The story of Jodhpuri chappals is incredibly romantic. The metamorphosis of plain leather into a completed colourful chappal is incredibly disciplined, as much as it’s beautiful. The process of making the chappal is an example of a well-oiled factory line, where the women and men share equal responsibilities to bring out the finished product. The leather received from various parts of the state is treated and then worked on by the men, who learn the art from their fathers, and have been doing so for generations.

The soles and covers are turned into sturdy shapes to fit various kinds of feet and sizes.

[caption id="attachment_86711" align="aligncenter" width="4272"]Artisan stitching the pattern for the Jodhpuri chappal Artisans, irrespective of their gender, contribute to the craft. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] Now, the women take over with their nimble fingers, creating the beautiful embroidery which makes the Jodhpuri chappal so distinct from the various footwear coming out of other parts of India.

Cooing to the infant on her lap, sought by the whistle of the pressure cooker every five minutes, an artist, from under her ghungat (veil), embroiders three to four pairs of chappals, every day.

[caption id="attachment_86712" align="aligncenter" width="4272"]Embroidery on the Jodhpuri chappal This intricate embroidery fetches them ₹30 a pair. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] Jodhpuri chappals have adorned feet for years. Middlemen picked them from these streets, and send them in huge numbers to shops in bigger cities, especially to the metros. Suppliers provide them to the hawker at the pavement and dozens of e-commerce websites, alike. The cost of a Jodhpuri chappal ranges from ₹300-500 when bought from any of these sellers. The artists usually receive as low as ₹30 to embroider one pair of Jodhpuris. For years, they have worked under clouds of economic disparity, and it’s not unknown to them. Quite contrary to the morose atmosphere one would expect, these artisans overwhelmingly display happiness, punctuating their everyday juggling of work with smiles.

There is an infectious camaraderie of sharing a common goal to create a craft.

[caption id="attachment_86713" align="aligncenter" width="4272"]Last step for the finished Jodhpuri chappal The final step of creating this beautiful peace of art. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] What sets this community apart is their pride in accepting themselves as heirs to a skill passed on to them for generations. The younger artists have migrated to cities (as is the story with many art forms in small cities and villages), yet many have returned to their community in recent times. Unknown to many, more often than not, economic support plays second fiddle to the appreciation and encouragement that the artist seeks. In the last few years, some resident history guides have brought sets of tourists and visitors to the chappalon wali gali, and the difference is evident in the faces of these artists. There is no prominent support for financial independence from any individual, organization, or the government.

The artists themselves seek no aid, and are vocal about the fact that all they need is a chance at fair trade.

[caption id="attachment_86715" align="aligncenter" width="4272"]The last touch before packing the Jodhpuri chappals, out for sale Finishing touches, before they head to the market. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] A little effort can go a long way. Whether you are a tourist, visitor, volunteer, or shopper, one can script a significant role in this movement. Jodhpur is visited by tourists all year-round. Inculcating these artists and other existing art forms as a part of the tourist trail can be amply beneficial. A visitor to Jodhpur can contribute by taking half a day out of his/her schedule to spend time with the artists. After all, chappalon wali gali is central to Jodhpur, and easily accessible. Volunteering to help or learn the trade, and buying directly from the artisans or organizations who support fair trade for the artists, is another positive. It is heartening to see the comeback of Indian indigenous art in the lives of many Indian shopping enthusiasts. India is a kaleidoscope of handicrafts.

Exploring, learning, and being aware of this is the first big step to indigenous art conservation.

[caption id="attachment_86717" align="aligncenter" width="500"]Promotion the Jodhpuri chappals, our own way Embracing an indigenous Indian art form means welcoming it into our lifestyle. (Image: Project Kalayatra)[/caption] The city of Jodhpur owes as much of its glory to history as it does to the various art forms which have originated and thrived here. This includes the Jodhpuri chappals, the Bandhini sarees, leather bags, camel bone sculpting, and so much more. All it needs is an effort to explore and discover that little extra which is usually unheard of. This vibrant city welcomes explorers, connoisseurs, artists, story tellers, and wanderers,to experience art rarely found in books. If you know any artisans/art forms that are little-known and in need of assistance, contact Project Kalayatra via email.

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TBI Blogs: Meet the Artists Preserving Jalatarangam, the Ancient Art of Creating Music From Water Waves

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The sound of moving water—be it the waves of a sea hitting the shore, or the gentle flow of a river—has always enthralled the best of us. To commemorate the essence of life, Nazariya brings you Jalatarangam, a percussion instrument that is tuned with water, not strings! Jalatarangam is an Indian melodic percussion instrument that involves numerous ceramic or metal bowls filled with different levels of water, aligned in unique patterns. When the edges of the bowl are stroked, they produce water waves that produce a sound so melodious that one would never really want it to come to a halt. The emergence of Jalatarangam is found in Vātsyāyana’s Kamasutra as playing on musical glasses filled with water. However, today, this instrument has tumbled into anonymity, despite its historical prominence. Being the most traditional Indian classical music, some scholars think that in the ancient period, these were in routine practice around the eastern border of India. The medieval musical treatise of Sangeet Parijaat has classified this instrument under Ghan-Vadya, i.e. an idiophonic instrument in which sound is produced by striking a surface, also called “concussion idiophones”. The Sangeet Saar (manuscript on classical Indian music and dance) considered one with 22 cups to be the complete Jalatarangam, and one with 15 cups to be of mediocre status.

The cups are of varying sizes, made of either bronze or porcelain.

[caption id="attachment_87521" align="aligncenter" width="768"] The bowls used in Jalatarangam.[/caption] Today, artists generally prefer china bowls, numbering around 16 in normal use. The number of cups depends on the melody. In order to play this instrument, the player arranges the cups in a half-circle in front of him/her to be able to reach them all easily. He/she pours water into the cups, and changes the pitch by adjusting the volume of water in the cup. The player then softly hits the cups with a wooden stick on the border to get the sound. However, playing this instrument is not at all easy. It requires a lot of skill to produce music leading to trance.

Sangeet Saar also mentions that if the player can rotate the water through a quick touch of the stick, he/she can achieve nuances and finer variations of the note.

[caption id="attachment_87523" align="aligncenter" width="768"] Jalatarangam, the instrument.[/caption] Poets of the Krishna cult have mentioned the wonders of Jalatarangam in their literature work. Many contemporary players of Carnatic music do attempt to produce Gamak (a fast meend or spanning 2-3 notes, normally deliberately forceful and vigorous, and repeating in an oscillatory manner), often in the face of skewed sounds and lack of required control. George Harrison played the Jalatarangam on the title track of his 1982 album ‘Gone Troppo’. In India, Seethalakshmi Doraiswamy, Shashikala Dani, and Nemani Somayajulu are noteworthy Jalatarangam players. Also, one of the major Jalatarangam pros is artist Kottayam TS Ajith Kumar, hailing from Kerala. His appealing passion towards this instrument led to his creativity in incorporating both melody and laya (the tempo or speed of a piece), thus opening a new style of playing the instrument.

Today, he performs in concerts worldwide and promotes the music of Jalatarangam, which people have forgotten today with the emergence of extensive varieties of music.

[caption id="attachment_87522" align="aligncenter" width="768"] Kottayam TS Ajith Kumar performing in a show[/caption] Jalatarangam is a unique type of music, and the most soothing one as well. We must highlight and promote it to release it from obscurity, and once again leave its audience with ecstasy. The idea of water waves, when laid together with proper techniques, releasing sound that is so alluring, is truly transcendental. This article originally appeared on Nazariya. If you know any artists Nazariya can work with, please send in the details on email.
Featured Image Source: By Sugnandani (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

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TBI Blogs: An Art Centre in Karnataka’s Sandur Is Providing Livelihoods While Fostering the Dying Lambani Art

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The Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra is an art center in Sandur working towards bringing national and international recognition to the traditional Lambani art. This organization markets the Arts & Crafts made by the women in local villages. Green valleys encompassed by spectacular hills deposited with large mines of Manganese and Iron Ore, the exuberant forests with colourful trees, the gently flowing streams, and the enchanting lands—this would be the best way to describe Sandur, located in southern India. Mahatma Gandhi described this place as an “Oasis” during his visit in the early 1930s. Dazzled by the beauty of Sandur, he quoted, “See Sandur in September” rightly. This dreamland of shimmering streams post-monsoon, with fresh air wafting across the fields, and the music of the meadows and the whispering winds, is also home to the languishing Lambani art. The vibrant tribal art form is believed to have descended from Roma gypsies of Europe, who migrated into the deserts of Rajasthan in North India thousands of years ago.

Later, they continued their voyage to the Southern states of India, including Karnataka.

[caption id="attachment_86875" align="aligncenter" width="5664"]Artisans busy at thier Lambani Art work Lambani artwork (Source: Interlude Journey)[/caption] Lambanis, who originally came from Marwar, now reside mostly in Southern and Middle India. Their ancient mode of dressing is the most colourful, with a unique glare and glitz. The distinctive features of the art are mirrors, shells, coins, and embroidery craft, which they use mostly to make their own traditional dresses. There are different types of complex tangles and stitches on brightly coloured/dyed cotton fabric, usually red and blue. Lambani art is famous all over the world, with flamboyant bed sheets, cushion covers, wall hangings, and carry bags being exported in large quantities.

However, the tribe still struggles to make a living in their few villages around North Karnataka.

[caption id="attachment_86878" align="aligncenter" width="6000"]Some of the colorful handbags Colourful handbags (Source: Interlude Journey)[/caption] This diminishing art is worthy of the nation’s pride. A handicraft centre, Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra (SKSS), was set up by Sandur Manganese and Iron Ore Limited (SMIORE) in 1984 to work towards bringing national and international recognition to the traditional Lambani art and other crafts. The cottage industry Smt. Mahalakshmi Mirror & Embroidery Unit is where the lambani-style handicrafts, khadi spinning and weaving, cane furniture making, and stone artwork take place. The founders named this unit after Mahalakshmi, a teacher who noticed the art by the women in the villages.

The Royal Ghorpade family brought her idea of setting up this platform for lambani women to life.

[caption id="attachment_86876" align="aligncenter" width="6000"]Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra (Source: Interlude Journey)[/caption] This unit is mostly run by the women, where each person takes the responsibility of a group of artisans from the local villages and guides them about the design requirements, based on the orders from the market. SKSS supplies the raw material, like dyed cloth, threads, and various other accessories, to the women artisans.

They create magic with their applique patchwork and thread embroidery with mirrors, shells, wooden beads, coins, and other tiny metallic jewelry to add more shine and elegance to the fabric.

[caption id="attachment_86882" align="alignnone" width="810"]The raw material provided for the lambani art The raw material provided to the artisans. (Source: Interlude Journey)[/caption] The mirror work and intricate thread work, with the glitter and charm of the lambani style, are spectacular. The products include exquisite purses, mobile pouches, dresses, waist belts, salwar dupatta, heavily embroidered carry bags, sarees, etc. There are also bed and cushion covers, and wall hangings, with the signature flashy pieces and intricate needlework.

The artisans here also engage in Cotton/Khadi spinning and weaving.

[caption id="attachment_86881" align="aligncenter" width="810"]The Lambnai Art Work Some other handicrafts. (Source: Interlude Journey)[/caption] The enormous effort of the SKSS to empower the Lambani women and their art is worth applauding. The organisation helps in the marketing and sale of their masterwork. Besides paying remuneration to the artisans, SKSS also provides them with daily food rations and other benefits. For more information, reach out to SKSS via email. Visit Interlude’s website to read about other unique Indian arts, such as Pattachitra painting.

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Wonderfully Weird: 15 Unique Museums in India You Cannot Afford to Miss

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When we think about museums, the first thing that comes to mind are images of stuffy galleries with staid security guards on hand to quiet the crowds. Not so at these decidedly quirky museums that prove there’s something for everyone, with exhibits celebrating unusual subjects, including black magic, human brains and even toilets.

So, forget the regular history and art museums, and pay a visit to these unconventional and unique museums in India that don’t just educate but entertain as well.

1. Legends Motorcycling Café, Bengaluru

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While vintage car museums are common, this one here is dedicated to vintage motorcycles! S.K. Prabhu, a passionate biker, began collecting them in 1992 and Legends Motorcycle Museum is his private collection. A biker’s delight the museum has more than 20 vintage motorcycles that are still in working condition, including a few rare ones that date back to World War II. Pride of place in his display is occupied by a red-and cream-coloured Cezeta, a rare 1962 model scooter made in erstwhile Czechoslovakia.

2. Virasat-e-Khalsa, Anandpur Sahib

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Located in Sri Anandpur Sahib, Virasat-e-Khalsa Museum showcases the rich cultural heritage and history of Sikhs. The stunning complex has been designed by the internationally acclaimed architect Moshe Safdie, who drew inspiration from the historic buildings such as the Golden Temple, the Anandgarh Fort, and the Gurdwara Keshgarh Sahib. Other than its fascinating interactive exhibits, this visitor-friendly museum itself is an awe-inspiring work of art - it houses one of the largest hand-painted murals in the world, depicting the past and the present of Punjab. With 10 million visitors over the past five years, it has become the most visited museum in India.

3. Paldi Kite Museum, Ahmedabad

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The city of Ahmedabad is globally renowned for Uttaran or the Kite Festival so it doesn't come as a surprise that the city has an entire museum dedicated to kites. The brainchild of Mr Bhanu Shah, a kite enthusiast who donated his 50-year-old collection of rare kites to Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation, this museum was established in 1985 and houses some of the rarest kites in existence, making it the first of its kind in India and second in the world.

4. Pukhauti Muktangan, Raipur

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With a very indigenous name, which literally translates to ‘free and open courtyard of our ancestors, this newly developed museum-cum-culture park combines the native ethos of Chattisgarh with modern design sensibilities. With murals by award-winning artists, gardens adorned by tribal art installations, and iron gates that tell long-forgotten local stories, this beautiful museum brings together the past and present of Chhattisgarh’s art forms in one place.

5. Human Brain Museum, Bengaluru

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Housed in the basement of the National Institute of Mental Health and Neuro Sciences (NIMHANS) in Bengaluru, this slightly gory museum has over 300 brain specimens preserved in jars, collected from donors and victims of road accidents. Each brain here has its own story to tell -- either damaged in an accident or ravaged by a parasite. Visitors even get to hold a real brain at the end of the tour!

6. Mayong Central Museum, Mayong

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Mayong or Mayang, a village in Morigaon district of Assam, has historically been known as the cradle of black magic. The name of the village itself is believed to have originated from the word ‘maya’ or illusion. Documenting this past, the exhibits at the Mayong Central Museum includes a plethora of bizarre local artefacts, including books on witchcraft, Tantrik manuscripts, handmade dolls, skulls and tools used in black magic rituals. Interested visitors are also given a demonstration of centuries-old rituals being performed to cast healing spells.

7. Sudha Cars Museum, Hyderabad

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The brainchild of K. Sudhakar (who holds the Guinness World Record for building the largest tricycle in the world), this unique museum houses all kinds of cars that cannot be called conventional by any means. This includes cars made from footballs, cricket bats, laptops, burgers, cameras and even sharpeners. A small plaque on each exhibit tells when it was built, how much time it took to make, and the maximum speed it can reach. No wonder the museum describes itself as “the world’s only wacky car museum”!.
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8. Losel Doll Museum, Dharamsala

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Nestled inside the lush gardens of Norbulingka Institute in Mcleodganj, Dharamsala, the Losel Doll Museum is the world's largest collection of Losel Dolls. These beautiful collector’s items are handcrafted by monks (of the Drepung Loseling monastery) who use wire, clay and papier mache to make them. Dressed in traditional Tibetan costumes, tailored from cotton, wool and silk, the doll is completed with jewellery and other accessories that illustrate aspects of Tibetan culture.

9. Sulabh International Museum of Toilets, Delhi

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A staple on the list of unusual museums around the world, this museum is dedicated to the history of sanitation and toilets. With exhibits dating back to 3000 BC, the museum has fascinating displays of reproduction of ancient chamber pots, Victorian toilet seats and even toilets made of gold that were once used by Roman Emperors. There are also models of the low-cost biodegradable toilets that Sulabh is building in rural areas and poor neighbourhoods.
Read MoreIN PHOTOS: A Visit To Delhi’s Toilet Museum Will Leave You Both Informed & Amazed

10. Uruswati Museum, Gurgaon

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If you love listening to folk tales, legends and stories that date back to another era, Uruswati Museum in Shikhopur, on the outskirts of Gurgaon, is a place that preserves them all. The only museum dedicated to folklore, it has paintings that portray love and longing, decorative folk art from rural temples and terracotta tablets that tell the well-known stories of Sohni Mahiwal, Laila Majnu, and Mirabai, as well as the lesser-known ones like Habba Khatun, Sassi Punnu and Madhumalti Dholmaru. There are also traditional costumes, crafts and jewellry from various states.

11. RBI Monetary Museum, Mumbai

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Ever thought of the fact that that 1₹ coin that you hand over with nonchalance may have a story to tell? The RBI Monetary Museum in Mumbai, the financial capital of India, is a place where many such tales may be found. From cowry shells and beads (the first-used forms of currency) to engraved coins from different historical periods and empires can be seen at this well-documented and security-conscious museum.

12. VECHAAR Utensils Museum, Ahmedabad

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Built in 1981,VECHAAR (Vishalla Environmental Centre for Heritage of Art, Architecture and Research) Utensils Museum is the brainchild of architect Mr. Surender C. Patel. This unique museum was a part of his effort to preserve the rare artistic skills and cultural heritage of Indian craftsmen. VECHAAR museum houses over 4,000 utensils, from 1,000-year-old jugs to modern glass utensils, and covers every type of metal from bronze and brass to German silver. The display also explains how these utensils evolved in different periods of history as a result of man’s changing needs and environment.

13. INS Kurusura Submarine Museum, Visakhapatnam

[caption id="attachment_90248" align="aligncenter" width="850"] Sierra Exif JPEG[/caption]
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Perched on the shoreline of Ramakrishna Beach in Vishakhapatnam, this beautiful fish-shaped black submarine is INS Kursura (S20) - India's 4th submarine that was decommissioned in 2001, after 31 years of service. The first submarine in Asia (and second in the world) to be turned into a museum, it displays and explains different aspects of a submariner’s life. For instance, visitors can see the torpedoes, the smallest possible bunker beds, toilets, kitchens, dive charts and communication equipment.

14. Shankar's International Dolls Museum

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Established by K Shankar Pillai, one of India’s first political cartoonists, in 1965 to store the dolls he had collected from several countries, this quirky museum has an impressive collection of 6700 costumed dolls from over 85 countries. With Japanese geisha miniatures, English dolls in costumes Shakespearean era, traditional African figurines and thousands of antique puppets from across the globe, this museum’s depiction of arts, culture and folklore of various countries through dolls is truly fascinating.

15. Arna Jharna, Jodhpur

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An alternative museum of and for local communities near Jodhpur, Arna Jharna is a tribute to late Komal Kothari, one of India’s leading folklorists and oral historians who was awarded the Padma Bhushan in 2004. Other than organising interactive workshops linked to folk culture and traditional knowledge, this museum also showcases more than 160 hand-made brooms from different parts of Rajasthan. The idea is that the study of brooms helps in understanding society and environment. For example, the fibres that brooms are made of give clues to the kind of grasses and plants that thrive in the region.
Also Read#TravelTales: The 7 Best Places to See India’s Fantastic Fossil Finds

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#TravelTales: Why You MUST Visit the Ancient ‘Village of the People Who Returned’ in Manipur

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Cities offer many insights and can quickly occupy your touristy agenda. But if you're looking for a break from the modern and are curious about the past, take a detour to this tiny village of Andro in Manipur. With everything from traditional handicrafts and indigenous brews to an ancient temple shrouded in local folklore, Andro offers an insightful gaze into the state's rich history.

Tucked away in the forested foothills of the Nongmaiching range in Manipur, this quaint village is known for its scenic beauty, the traditional pottery skills of its residents and the glimpse it provides into the rich tribal traditions of the state.

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The name of this village is believed to have originated from the word ‘handro’, which, in local tongue, translates to ‘the village of the people who returned’. According to local folklore, the Lois (the majority community in Andro) were some of the earliest settlers of Manipur. Driven away by a local ruler, they returned later to establish their settlement that gradually came to be known as Andro. Warm, hospitable and skilled in making several handicrafts, the residents of Andro are keen on upholding and preserving their slowly-disappearing traditions and customs. This is why in 1993 (under the guidance of noted anthropologist, writer and numismatist Mutua Bahadur) the villagers established a cultural complex-cum-museum that has since become the heart of the village.

Unlike a conventional museum housed in a concrete building, the Mutua Museum (named in honour of its first museum curator) is a constellation of traditionally built, thatched huts that displays a multitude of locally-made handicrafts.

Photo Source: Mo Irom and iromxmo.wordpress.com
From pretty paintings and handcrafted tribal dolls (that depict the traditional attires of the 29 recognised tribes of Manipur) to stone figurines and wood carvings of local legends, this museum is a stunning display of Andro’s cultural legacy. However, the Andro’s unusual style of pottery is the cynosure of all eyes at the museum. (like Kambi, Eshaipu, Pudon Makhong, Yukhum, Walom, Ngangkha and Wangkham). Other than agriculture, pottery is the main occupation of the villagers who excel at it.
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What sets the village’s style of pottery apart is the fact that the craftsmen use a uniquely shaped wooden bat to mould the clay instead of a pottery wheel. This flat-surfaced bat is used to deftly pound the clay into whatever shape or design the potter wants to create. It is then sun-dried for four days before being baked in the fire. The pots are then given a special shine by using a natural dye made from barks of a local tree.

Interestingly, unmarried girls are not allowed to make earthen pots in Andro. Only married women are allowed to take up this craft, that too after they have undergone a traditional ceremony called ‘Thou Chanba’ (that translates to job assigning ceremony).

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Another interesting sight to see in Andro is the Chakpa Panam Ningthou Meithoupirol Shanglen or Mei Mutaba. A place the village residents deeply revere and are inherently proud of, this ancient temple is dedicated to the governing deity of the village, Panam Ningthou, and houses a sacred fire that has been burning since it was first lit nearly a thousand years ago. It is believed that this fire has been carefully protected and kept burning since it was introduced to the people of Manipur by Poireiton, the King of the Khuman clan, around 1st century AD. Believed to be the historical turning point for the Manipuri civilisation, this was the time when the nomadic hunters of the region settled down to form well-organised agrarian communities. Andro is also famous for its indigenous brews, like Sekmai and Andro, that are still made by the villagers in the traditional style that has remain unchanged for centuries. The more popular of the two, sekmai is prepared by distilling a fermented mixture of local rice and the stems of yangli (a local creeper plant). The result? A malty drink with a slightly sweet aroma and underlying hints of smokiness.

Andro being brewed.

Photo Source: Mo Irom and iromxmo.wordpress.com
In the recent years, the residents of Andro have woken up to the potential of sustainable tourism. While they are careful about preserving the pristine beauty of their surroundings, they have been working to the boost eco-tourism prospects in and around their village. The villagers of Andro have built a pretty reservoir at the foothills and established a park around it called the Santhei Nature Park. The villagers ensure that the park, a popular picnic spot for locals and tourists alike, is kept clean and green. With an orchid farm being built near the park, the tourist footfall at Andro has gone up significantly, translating into more socio-economic benefits for the locals.
Also ReadA Group of Youngsters in Manipur Worked 10 years to Transform Barren Land Into a Lush Forest

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